Finishing The Balcony With Plasterboard (44 Photos): Is It Possible To Sheathe It With Your Own Hands, Features Of The Sheathing

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Finishing The Balcony With Plasterboard (44 Photos): Is It Possible To Sheathe It With Your Own Hands, Features Of The Sheathing
Finishing The Balcony With Plasterboard (44 Photos): Is It Possible To Sheathe It With Your Own Hands, Features Of The Sheathing

Video: Finishing The Balcony With Plasterboard (44 Photos): Is It Possible To Sheathe It With Your Own Hands, Features Of The Sheathing

Video: Finishing The Balcony With Plasterboard (44 Photos): Is It Possible To Sheathe It With Your Own Hands, Features Of The Sheathing
Video: Extending Dining Table Build — One-Man Woodworking Shop - Shot With Nikon 4K 2023, June
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To create a cozy home, it is important to pay attention to every part of it. Finishing the balcony with plasterboard will allow you to insulate, as well as make it more attractive without serious financial costs.

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7 pictures

Pros and cons of drywall

Drywall appeared at the end of the last century and immediately became popular due to its practicality and functionality.

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Pros:

  • Environmental friendliness. The material is absolutely harmless to humans and the environment, does not emit any hazardous substances.
  • Providing excellent sound insulation. This is not so important for finishing a balcony, but thanks to this property, the material is often used to create interior partitions.
  • Thermal insulation. Despite its small thickness, drywall reliably retains heat indoors.
  • Plastic. The material is easily cut with an ordinary knife, which allows it to be used in any repair.
  • Non-flammability. Previously, the material was considered low-combustible. Now it has become absolutely non-combustible, as it meets certain requirements of GOST and SNIP standards.
  • Light weight. This quality of drywall makes finishing work much easier for workers.
  • Easy to install. Working with the material is so simple that it is ideal for DIY DIY repairs.
  • However, drywall is not ideal in the world of building materials. It also has disadvantages.
  • Fragility. It is important to be careful when transporting and installing the material. At significant mechanical pressure, its deformation is possible.
  • Hygroscopicity. Non-moisture resistant drywall tends to easily absorb moisture. Therefore, before work, it must be left open for a couple of days. Moisture-resistant type of material does not need preliminary "airing". You can determine the moisture resistance of the material by the green marking on the back of the sheets.
  • Reducing the area of the room. A feature of drywall installation is the reduction in space. This is due to the thickness of the sheets of material, putty and frame.
  • Additional sheet processing. So far, there is no such material on sale with a finished coating. Any repair involving drywall requires finishing.
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This material has several varieties, differing in their characteristics

  1. Usual. This material is white. Suitable for rooms with moderate temperature and humidity conditions.
  2. Flame retardant. This species is colored reddish or pinkish. Ideal for rooms with a high level of fire safety control.
  3. Moisture resistant. This material is green or blue. Can be used in bathrooms and other areas with high humidity. It weighs a little more than usual.
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What option to choose for cladding balcony walls from the inside? Undoubtedly, a moisture-resistant type of drywall is needed here. Its sheets have a special coating that protects the material from wetting and deformation. And a special anti-fungal impregnation will prevent possible negative processes in the wall.

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These factors are important to consider. Indeed, even when the balcony is insulated, temperature drops and changes in humidity create special conditions in this space that require the necessary care.

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Preparation for work

If you decide to sheathe the balcony with plasterboard, you will need preparatory measures. Prepare whatever you need for work.

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Bring the drywall itself, an electric drill, a screwdriver and a hammer drill. To mount the frame, you will need UD and CD profiles. You will connect profiles using crabs. You will also need suspensions, level, plumb line. Do not forget metal screws. And of course, materials for insulation and vapor barrier.

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Preparation of the premises is equally important. If you plan to change the glass units, then do it before starting work. It is also necessary to check the integrity of the wall surface.

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If cracks are found, clean them with a grinder and putty with a moisture-resistant material. Then prime the walls and ceiling. It is better to repeat this several times. A reliable and durable PVA primer is perfect for these purposes.

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For maximum protection of the walls from the unwanted effects of external factors, you can cover them with an anti-fungal and water-repellent agent.

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After the preliminary work, wait 13-15 hours until the sheathing itself.

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Stages of work on fixing drywall:

  • installation of lathing
  • insulation and creation of a vapor barrier
  • fastening the material itself to the finished structure
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Installation of lathing

  • Measure the area of the walls. Then cut the UD and CD metal profiles. UD - guides. They are needed for installation. CD - rackmount. They will help create the wireframe.
  • Fix the UD to the ceiling. Maintain a step of 40-50 cm. Take a building level or plumb line and draw lines from UD. This will help align the bottom rail.
  • Also set the bottom UD and corner guides. The cutter will help to connect the UD to each other. The side UDs are secured with screws.
  • Then install the CD. Cut the profile to the desired length and insert into the “frame” between the top and bottom UD. Here, the fastening is made with self-tapping screws at two points (top and bottom). Attach other longitudinal CDs in the same way.
  • Fix the vertical profiles with hangers. They make the structure more durable. Attach them in 40-50 cm increments along the length of each CD. Use self-tapping screws for absolute fixation.
  • Then combine the hangers with the profile. This is where screws and metal "feet" come in handy. The step when installing transverse profiles is calculated according to the height of the walls. Usually it is 40-50 cm.
  • Places in which vertical and horizontal profiles are combined with each other put "crabs". Fix them with self-tapping screws.
  • It must be remembered that for correct wall cladding, vertical frame profiles must be fastened in 60 cm increments.
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Warming and vapor barrier

Place insulation between the profiles. When covering a balcony, this is a prerequisite. The type of insulation is determined by the master. It can be penoplex, mineral wool or something else.

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Cut the insulation into equal parts. The size of the segments is determined by the size of the "cells" in which you will install the insulation. Use a special adhesive mixture to secure it. Fixation is carried out with disc dowels.

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Lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Use glue and a mounting stapler to secure it. On the drywall, draw the marks for the attachment to the profiles. Then cut out the required part of the sheet and attach it to the frame with the green back side.

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Make the holes according to the markings you made. Use an electric drill. Here you need a step of 30-40 cm. Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and screw them with a screwdriver carefully and not to the very end. Remember that putting too much pressure on the drywall can deform it. Install all sheets in the same way.

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8 pictures

Final finishing

At the end, preparation for the cladding is carried out. Cover the drywall surface with a primer. Place paper tape on the seams between the sheets of material. If it is absent, you can use a special mesh. Then apply 2 coats of putty.

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The final stage of work depends on the wishes of the owner. You can use tiles here. Wallpaper will also be appropriate. The mosaic will also look interesting. Only the lining is not suitable, because nails or self-tapping screws are used for its installation, and this can lead to shedding of the putty from the drywall.

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