A sliding wardrobe is an excellent solution for rooms with limited space. The doors slide open, like on a train, which allows you to install the cabinet in small hallways and narrow corridors. A similar design is offered in all furniture salons, however, the typical dimensions are not always suitable for your room size. You can order a wardrobe designed according to your measurements based on the characteristics of your premises, but the cost of one copy doubles. For those who need a cabinet larger or smaller than a standard cabinet, there is another solution - to assemble the structure with your own hands. This is not very difficult to do if you know where to start.
Choice of cabinet design and placement options
Placement of the cabinet in a niche. Living space designers are sometimes very resourceful, which is why half of typical houses have niches of unknown purpose in the hallway. It is in this niche that you can make a wardrobe. To do this, you will need to install door guides and order the doors themselves with fittings. This way you save space, time and money.
Wardrobe along the entire length of the wall. A good solution is to arrange a cabinet along the entire length of the wall. Firstly, the room is not broken by the corners of furniture and visually does not lose space. Secondly, such a cabinet can serve not only as a wardrobe, but also as a storage room where skates, skates, skis and even car tires are stored.
A sliding wardrobe can separate the hallway area from the living area in studio apartments. The wardrobe is installed in the entire width of the room, a through sliding door is made in its center, and on the sides there are compartments for clothes. Some people prefer to have all doors on both sides, which allows access to clothes from the hallway and bedroom at the same time. A very convenient option when access to outerwear is from the hallway, and access to bedding is from the living area.
The most optimal for creating a cabinet is chipboard and MDF of high or medium density. This material is not very expensive and relatively dense. But when choosing a chipboard, be sure to pay attention to its category (should be E-1) and the coating (preferably laminated from all sides). Chipboard, when heated, emits formaldehyde and phenol, so if there are heating pipes in your hallway, then do not risk it and choose another material. Another disadvantage of chipboard can be considered a weak retention of screws.
MDF is safe for humans, because when heated, lignin is released, which is contained in natural wood. True, the price of MDF is significantly higher, and it is a fire hazardous material.
Wood is a traditional material, however, if you plan to make a built-in wardrobe, it is better not to use it. The concrete wall creates additional moisture, and the spruce and pine, from which boards are usually made, have a low moisture resistance.
It is better not to use drywall, because this material is not for the manufacture of supporting structures. It is fragile and if you do not think over the complex structure of the base, it will not hold the doors of the wardrobe.
One of the possible options is the preliminary design of the cabinet, and then the purchase of ready-made components in stores, or the creation of such components to order in the workshop (it is still cheaper than buying ready-made furniture).
What to consider when designing
When designing your own wardrobe, consider the following:
- useless space (this is what takes up space, but is not used for its intended purpose. In this particular case, it is a sliding system.It is necessary to lay 10 cm on it and add to the useful space, which should be at least the width of the hanger. Thus, the depth of the wardrobe with a standard bar is: the width of the largest hanger + 10 cm for the convenience of placing things + 10 cm for the door mechanism);
- if you are assembling on the floor (do not mount the cabinet in a niche or directly to the wall), then the height of the structure must necessarily be lower than the ceiling height in the hallway by at least 10 cm at a depth of 70 cm, and preferably even more so that you can raise it and put the cabinet upright;
- if you plan to put the cabinet on adjustable support legs, then lay a place for them next to the nearest partition (no further than 30 cm from it);
- the rigidity of the structure is provided by transverse ribs on the rear wall of the cabinet, without them the structure will stagger;
- if space does not allow installing a cabinet with a standard longitudinal bar, lay several sections for the cross bar;
- when designing drawers, lay 7 mm between the fronts on the downward protruding width of the lower rail. If this is not done, the boxes will not close;
- the most important thing when designing internal sections is to take into account the width of the sliding structure! Therefore, decide in advance on the number and width of the doors in order to then adjust the entire system to them. If the width of the door does not match the width of the chest of drawers, the drawers will not open. Bulkheads between compartments must coincide with the boundaries of the doors;
- the shelves have a distance of about 30 cm;
- the compartment for hanging clothes is calculated based on the length of the longest thing and another 10 cm is added to it;
In any closet, especially if it is alone in the apartment, there should be sections for storing outerwear, shoes, hats, linen, bedding, suitcases, pillows, blankets, dresses, jackets and trousers. The picture shows the optimal placement of the sections in the wardrobe for the hallway.
Drawings can be made in design programs: "Astro Furniture Designer", "Pro 100", "bCAD" and others.
How to assemble by yourself
If you are assembling the cabinet in an upright position "under the ceiling", use the step-by-step instructions:
- first of all, you decorate the back wall of the cabinet. This can be done using a self-adhesive film in the color of the main panels. You can, of course, not draw up, but if you need to wipe the dust, then it is easier to do it with a film than with paper wallpaper;
- then a frame is made of a bar or metal slats: first, vertically (cabinet height) and horizontally (cabinet width), the bar is attached to the wall, then to the floor and ceiling (cabinet depth), then the vertical outer beams are installed, and then a transverse rail is inserted between them. In the same order, the internal partitions are mounted between the sections;
- it is better to reinforce the joints with a profile;
- the outer side of the cabinet is sewn up with sheets of fiberboard or MDF;
- It is very convenient to fasten the structural parts with euro screws, however, under them you need to pre-drill holes with a special nozzle;
- the final stage of assembly is the installation of compartment doors.