Chimney For A Bath (56 Photos): A Spark Arrester For Stoves On A Pipe, How To Properly Install A Ceramic Chimney With Your Own Hands

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Chimney For A Bath (56 Photos): A Spark Arrester For Stoves On A Pipe, How To Properly Install A Ceramic Chimney With Your Own Hands
Chimney For A Bath (56 Photos): A Spark Arrester For Stoves On A Pipe, How To Properly Install A Ceramic Chimney With Your Own Hands

Video: Chimney For A Bath (56 Photos): A Spark Arrester For Stoves On A Pipe, How To Properly Install A Ceramic Chimney With Your Own Hands

Video: Chimney For A Bath (56 Photos): A Spark Arrester For Stoves On A Pipe, How To Properly Install A Ceramic Chimney With Your Own Hands
Video: Ventis Chimney Pipe Open Burning Chimney Cap - Installing Wind Guard / Spark Arrestor 2024, March
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The speed of heating the water in the washing room and maintaining the heat in the steam room, fire safety and air purity in the bath depend on a properly constructed chimney. It is not easy to make this structure with your own hands, but it is quite possible.

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Distinguish between internal and external chimneys. The first ones are installed on top of the stove to the ceiling and taken out into the street through the attic and roofing. The combustion products pass through the chimney, providing heating of the room and reducing fuel consumption. And the pipe itself does not deteriorate due to the vagaries of the weather, since it is inside the bath.

The disadvantages of the design include the complexity of the construction, since the chimney is carried out through the bath ceilings. If holes form in the chimney, smoke may seep into the room and there is a high likelihood of fire.

External chimneys are a pipe running outside the bath along the side wall. Such the chimney is easy to clean and fireproof, but requires additional insulation and increases the consumption of firewood … Therefore, many are inclined to install internal chimneys.

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Chimneys are also divided into several types depending on the materials from which they are made. Brick is considered a traditional material for a rustic Russian bath with a closed stove. This strong, durable and fireproof material takes a long time to warm up and retains heat well. Building a brick chimney is a laborious process, and soot settles on its rough inner surface, trapping smoke in the pipe and reducing draft.

Metal chimney easy to install, it has a smooth inner surface, it heats water quickly. Steel pipes heat up in a matter of seconds, and cast iron pipes are heavy and it is not so easy to mount them alone.

The ideal option is considered to be stainless steel, which has a low weight, good traction and resistance to high temperatures.

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Temperature changes negatively affect single-wall pipes, therefore pay attention to double-circuit sandwich constructions … A sandwich chimney consists of two pipes with non-combustible insulation made of basalt or ceramic wool, or vermiculite. A large galvanized or stainless steel pipe keeps the insulation dry, and a small one removes smoke.

A three-circuit metal chimney kills two birds with one stone: it takes away the smoke and ventilates the room. The principle of operation is simple: smoke flows through the main pipe, the second cools the first, and thermal insulation is placed in the third. Ease of construction, ease of installation, maximum fire safety and long service life makes it the most suitable for baths.

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Made from modern materials the most reliable are ceramic chimneysthat can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees. Ceramic is waterproof and heat-retaining well, highly resistant to corrosion. It is designed for solid brick buildings.

Sometimes there is information about the design of chimneys from lying gas cylinders, pipe scraps, mufflers from a truck and other materials at hand.

Experts unanimously repeat about the fire hazard of this situation, since the chimney must be designed in accordance with all the rules. Then the rest in the bath will be not only comfortable, but also safe.

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Size selection

The diameter of the chimney pipes is designed taking into account the power of the stove, and its length depends on the location of the stove structure in the bath. Regardless of the peculiarities of the construction, the chimney must be installed in accordance with the norms of SNiP and the rules of pipe and furnace work.

The combustion products of solid fuels must be removed through the chimney, which is installed vertically without reducing the cross-section.

The thickness of steel, corrosion-resistant chimneys should be at least 1 mm, brick - 120 mm and concrete - 60 mm.

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Non-combustible insulation will protect the structures and ceilings made of combustible materials adjacent to the chimney. In this case, concrete or brick walls of the chimney should be at a distance of 130 mm from the wooden coverings, and ceramic - 250 mm.

The depth of the pockets at the base of the pipes is up to 250 mm. They have holes for cleaning, closed with special latches. If several stoves are installed in the bath, each must have a separate chimney.

The higher the chimney, the better the draft, any objects near the chimney mouth worsen it, so the height of the pipes must be at least 5 meters. As for the height chimney on the roof, it must rise more than 20 cm above the flat roof … If the pipe is located one and a half or three meters from the ridge, it should be placed no lower than the ridge level, and its height exceeds 50 cm.

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If the distance between the roof ridge and the chimney is more than three meters, mentally draw a line from the ridge to the chimney downward from the horizon at an angle of 10 degrees: the installed chimney should be higher than this line. In general, the chimney should be 50 cm above the top of the building.… If the roof of the building is made of combustible materials, the height of the chimneys should be up to one or one and a half meters.

Chimney parameters are strictly prescribed by SNiP standards … So, for the complete removal of flue gas, the inner diameter of concrete and brick chimneys must be at least 140x140 mm with a furnace power of up to 3.5 W, 140x120 at 3.5-5.2 W and 140x270 at 5.2-7 W.

The circular cross-section of steel and ceramic chimneys is at least 16 cm with a stove with a power of up to 3.5 W, 19 cm - from 3.5-5.2 W and 22 cm with a power of 5.2-7 W. On the chimneys of solid fuel stoves, valves with a size of 15x15 mm are installed.

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Manufacturers rating

Most buyers prefer lightweight and easy-to-install stainless steel structures. Judging by the reviews, the leaders are the products of three domestic manufacturers: Ferrum, Feringer and Craft.

Feringer specializes in the manufacture of products from heat-resistant black steel. The 3 mm thickness and the ability to withstand high temperatures (up to 600 degrees) allows pipes to be installed inside the steam room. These chimneys are durable, they do not darken from the heat, they are safe to run through ceilings.

Their only drawback is the standard diameter of 110 mm.

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Ferrum and Craft factories specialize in the production of stainless steel chimneys. The difference is that Ferrum produces both stainless steel and galvanized steel … In this case, the first is intended for single-circuit and inner walls of double-circuit chimneys, and the second is only for the outer pipe of the sandwich chimney.

Steel Products Craft resistant to aggressive environmental influences. The molybdenum, titanium and nickel contained in them make the chimney resistant to corrosion and oxidation, high and low temperatures, and also increase its strength.

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Device

Ideally, the chimney is a horizontal structure, but in most cases its parts are located both horizontally and vertically.

Therefore, in the kit, special connecting elements are attached to the chimneys:

  • Knee responsible for the smooth connection of the chimney elements. When choosing this connector, pay attention to the angle of inclination.
  • Three-hole connector must be properly connected to the pipes. If this is not done, smoke will penetrate into the bath rooms, which does not contribute to a pleasant rest.

The tee can be easily cleaned of ash thanks to the easily removable glass element.

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  • Branch pipe protects the structures adjacent to the chimney from extreme heat, and therefore is necessary in the presence of wooden floors. This element is used as pipe insulation if the attic and roof are made of combustible materials.
  • Roof cut or skirt tightly connects the roof to the chimney, protecting the interior from rain and snow. Well, the umbrella installed on the top of the chimney protects the entire structure from the vagaries of the weather, from the destruction of the material, and from insects.
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In addition to the connecting elements, the standard kit includes fasteners - clamps and brackets for fixing the structure and dampers that regulate traction. A spark arrester, which is an iron grate with a visor, protects the building from fiery sparks.

There are a number of important elements of the chimney, without which the equipment of the bath cannot be imagined:

  • The heat exchanger is a tank with steel plates 114-115 mm thick, installed as a starting element for the chimney. It is used to protect the bath attendants from contact with the hot surface of the stove and to accelerate the process of heating the water.
  • An economizer is considered a classic example of a heat exchanger, which is installed above a bath boiler or stove. This device has anti-corrosion and acid-resistant properties and is equally suitable for large and small bath rooms.

Air circulates through the convection tubes of the economizer, so the ingress of carbon monoxide into the outer pipes and into the bath compartments is excluded.

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  • A steam cannon or homemade steam generator is used to create wet or dry steam. The device saves water, does not take up much space. It is easy to assemble it yourself: metal pipes with a diameter of 5-7 cm are placed above the stove so that water is poured from one end, and steam comes from the other.
  • To prevent fungus and air stagnation, it is important to debug the ventilation system. But if in a wooden bath the room is ventilated through the cracks between the boards, then for baths made of brick or concrete it is necessary to equip an exhaust hood. Properly arranged ventilation ensures the flow of fresh air, allows you to dry the washing compartment after bath procedures and evenly distributes warm air in the steam room.
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Installation

Arranging a chimney is not an easy and time-consuming business, but if you follow the instructions carefully, it is quite possible to assemble a reliable and fireproof unit with your own hands. Immediately before installation, fix heat-resistant material (for example, asbestos boards) to the walls of the bath.

Make sure that the joints of the chimney are not level with ceilings and roofs. Coat the joints with heat-resistant hermetic compounds and additionally fasten them with clamps. Large gaps are tightly filled with asbestos cord, and a rubber seal will be needed after the chimney is brought to the roof.

It is not possible to give a step-by-step guide for installing each type of oven, because it all depends on the features of the structure itself. But it is quite realistic to consider the schemes for arranging the chimney on your own in stages.

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The easiest to install version of an internal metal chimney is installed as follows:

  • The first pipe element is connected directly to the furnace nozzle, followed by a gate regulating the draft.
  • To pass through the ceiling, make a square hole and assemble a metal box with a through hole. The hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe, and the height of the box is 0.4 m more than the thickness of the ceiling slabs.
  • Mount the box in the ceiling, fix it, and then pass the pipe into the attic. The latter must be insulated with expanded clay or rock mineral wool, and for the box, make a cover with a through hole.
  • Then cut a hole in the roof, attach heat-resistant asbestos to it from below, and insulate the pipe with mineral wool or asbestos from above.
  • Upon completion of the work, “put on” a waterproof rubber cuff on the chimney and treat the joints with a sealant.
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An external chimney is less time consuming, since it is not laid through the ceiling, but through the wall. A metal elbow with a suitable bend angle is attached to the pipe and then to the pipe. A through hole is made in the wall, a metal box is mounted and the pipe is brought out.

From the outside, a tee is attached, allowing you to run the chimney up and down and along the wall. The pipe is raised above the ridge by about 0.5-0.6 meters, covered with an umbrella, and the cracks on the wall are sealed with a heat-resistant sealant.

These structures dry out quickly, therefore they require additional insulation. In order not to complicate your life, use polyurethane foam pipes, which will significantly reduce heat loss and protect against freezing.

More and more, metal sandwich chimneys are gaining popularity, the design of which includes a layer of insulation that protects the outer pipe from overheating and allows you to quickly warm up the inner pipe.

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Installation of such structures is done as follows:

  • Make a marking of the chimney outlet on the ceiling and roof and make holes. Along the perimeter of the holes, approximately 10 cm are left for thermal insulation of the sandwich chimney from the wooden floors. The place where the pipe enters the ceiling is covered with mineral or glass wool.
  • If the distance from the attic of the bathhouse to the roof is more than one and a half meters, determine the place of the unloading unit, which is installed in the attic. Its metal corners and mounting elements will take the load of the pipe and prevent lateral vibrations.
  • The inner pipe is tightly inserted into the stove pipe, all the elements of the pipe are inserted into one another, and the joints and bends are fixed with clamps.
  • A fire-prevention cut is placed in the opening of the ceiling, to which a bore is welded in diameter larger than the outer pipe of the sandwich. This increases the area of the stop and increases the stability under lateral loads. The final stage of the work is the sealing of the exit points and joints and the installation of an umbrella on the chimney.
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Brick structures have been and remain one of the most complex, but they do not lose ground due to their high tightness and fire safety. It is better to lay a brick chimney in a room on clay, and above the roof - a cement-sand mortar.

So let's get started:

  • First you need to make markings on the ceiling and roof using a level or plumb line. Then saw through strictly vertical holes, prepare the solution.
  • The overhead part is laid on the prepared place of the stove. It is laid out vertically and made sure that its inner surface is even, because irregularities reduce traction. The correct position of the overhanging part is controlled with a thread stretched between the angle of the first row of masonry and the angle of the ceiling opening. The chimney width is half a brick.
  • The fluff expands the outer walls of the chimney and securely fixes the chimney. To increase stability, use construction reinforcement: it should not be inside and visible from the outside. When laying the fluff, each new row protrudes a quarter above the previous one. As a result, the width of the chimney will be one brick, and the widest part of the structure will be at the level of the ceiling.
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  • To fix the chimney, edged boards are nailed close to the entire perimeter of the fluff to the ceiling ceilings, which will hold the structure and will not allow it to vibrate from the wind. Then the fluff is transferred to the riser, gradually reducing the width of the chimney, and put so to the roof.
  • The otter, which drains rain and melt water, is laid out in the same way as a fluff. In terms of dimensions, it is a quarter of a brick larger than a riser, and its height depends on the roof slope.

It is important that the otter starts at the bottom of the roofing and is two rows above the top.

Then the neck of the structure is laid out, the head and the metal cap are installed. The latter is attached to the crate, and at the joints is fixed with a steel clamp with heat-resistant material. Ideal for both metal roofs and corrugated roofs

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A reliable and beautiful ceramic chimney consists of an inner pipe, an insulating layer and facing bricks.

It is installed as follows:

  • Depending on the characteristics of the bath, ceramic chimneys are installed either on the hotel foundation next to the stove, or on top of it. It is important that the place is perfectly level. Prepare special adhesive and one meter length reinforcement for additional fixation. The ceramic construction protects the wood floors from heat, so it does not need insulation when passing through the ceiling and roof.
  • First, two ceramic halves are installed, reinforcement is inserted into the side holes. The gaps between the reinforcement and the ceramic brick are poured with glue, while it is enough for the glue to connect them in several places.
  • The ceramic pipe should be wrapped with a mineral wool heat insulator and secured with a clamp. All pipes are prepared in the same way, the number of which must correspond to the height of the structure.
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  • The pipe is placed in a ceramic hole and its position is checked for correctness. Then they put the second on the glue and put it in the socket of the first. The structure is "planted" on glue, not forgetting to remove the excess from the inside of the pipes. The third, fourth and all subsequent pipes are installed in the same way.
  • In the attic, fill up the cracks with wooden skirting boards, and then reinforce the structure with planks. If the height does not exceed one and a half meters, it is enough to attach the boards along the perimeter of the chimney and nail them to the attic floors.

For a higher version, additional fixation is made of wood or metal corners from the boards. The construction work is completed with reliable sealing of the roof with the help of factory elements.

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Cleaning

The sauna chimney is cleaned at least twice a year - in spring and autumn. There are a number of reasons for this: the formed condensate, foreign objects entering the pipe, but often the chimney is cleaned of soot and soot. The latter depends on the type of fuel used: special briquettes or Euro wood slows down the accumulation of soot, but wood fuel contributes to an increase in the frequency of cleaning.

Today, there are three popular methods for chimney cleaning. The traditional chimney cleaning tool is a ruff, which can be purchased at any hardware store or made from scrap materials.

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To make this simple device, you will need a broom with plastic rods, a washer, a self-tapping screw and a cable one and a half or two meters long with a load of two to three kilograms. The process of making a ruff looks like this:

  • The broomsticks are placed in boiling water to soften, then unbend them in different directions and distribute them evenly.
  • The unbent rods are fixed with a washer and a self-tapping screw.
  • At the base of the ruff, a cable with a load is fastened with brackets.
  • The final stage is adjusting the size, because the ruff should be slightly larger than the chimney. A template cut from cardboard will help you determine the size correctly.
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Cleaning the chimney with a brush is very simple. A load is lowered into the chimney, then a ruff, and then the pipe is cleaned with forward movements. Another “home” cleaning tool is the hose.

Before they clean the chimney for them, they first prepare a place near the stove, pull the hose through the pipe and clean it, pulling it in different directions. At the same time, the hose is good for cleaning soot and soot, and the ruff also removes foreign objects.

Folk remedies such as potato peelings or combustible fuels are also simple and effective. In the first case, a bucket of potato peelings is thrown into a red-hot oven (less can be done - it all depends on the internal dimensions of the oven). The starch released from the cleanings reacts with the soot and it removes itself within two to three days. True, experts advise once again to clean the chimney with a brush or a hose.

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The highly flammable fuel is dry aspen wood. Open the blower, chimney valve, combustion chamber door and keep the fire going for two to three hours. During this time, soot and soot completely burn out. For such cleaning, the chimney must withstand temperatures over a thousand degrees.

Modern liquid and solid chemicals are gaining popularity, which are placed in the furnace along with wood or coal. They clear the chimney quickly, are affordable, inexpensive and safe.

To prevent blockages, it is enough to burn aluminum foil with fuel every ten furnaces. It is important that it burns out, and not just flattened out from the heat.

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Possible mistakes

It also happens that, despite all the correctness of the calculations, an error creeps into the design of the chimney. There is no reason to panic, but it is important to know how to eliminate an unpleasant flaw.

Smoldering firewood, a furnace door covered with soot and streams of smoke "speak" of low draft. This happens with heavy pollution or a short chimney. In the first case, the chimney is cleaned, in the second, it is increased with the help of insulated pipes. If the draft remains the same, change the diameter of the chimney.

Puffs of smoke escaping from the air holes indicate that the draft has tipped over. This happens when the chimney is incorrectly removed or its upper part is not sufficiently insulated. Often the solution to the problem lies in the insulation of the chimney.

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If the oven barely heats up, adjust the draft.

To do this, install a gate, heat-removing modules with metal fins, acting on the principle of a radiator, or double-walled heat storage modules with stone chips or pearlite sand instead of a heater.

Strong heating of individual parts of the chimney indicates shrinkage of poor-quality thermal insulation … The structure should be replaced, and as a temporary solution, assemble a heat-insulating casing made of gypsum fiber board and fill it with stone wool.

Special nozzles-deflectors help to correct errors in the design of the chimney. The vane nozzle reduces the risk of overturning and enhances the thrust. The rotating one is practically unsuitable for chimneys, since in calm weather it worsens traction, and in winter, wintering blocks the path of smoke. The electric smoke pump allows for quick ignition and reduces draft.

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You will learn how to make a chimney through the ceiling in a bath from the video below.

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