The Foundation For The Barn: From Tires, On Piles, From Blocks And Other Types, A Simple Foundation For A Utility Block With Your Own Hands According To Step-by-step Instructions

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The Foundation For The Barn: From Tires, On Piles, From Blocks And Other Types, A Simple Foundation For A Utility Block With Your Own Hands According To Step-by-step Instructions
The Foundation For The Barn: From Tires, On Piles, From Blocks And Other Types, A Simple Foundation For A Utility Block With Your Own Hands According To Step-by-step Instructions

Video: The Foundation For The Barn: From Tires, On Piles, From Blocks And Other Types, A Simple Foundation For A Utility Block With Your Own Hands According To Step-by-step Instructions

Video: The Foundation For The Barn: From Tires, On Piles, From Blocks And Other Types, A Simple Foundation For A Utility Block With Your Own Hands According To Step-by-step Instructions
Video: How To Level A Shed by Heartland Sheds 2024, March
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When buying a suburban area, the very first important building on it is a barn. The outbuilding will come in handy when building a residential building, because the inventory must be put somewhere. You can build a room with your own hands. However, in order for the outbuilding to be reliable, it is first of all necessary to make a high-quality foundation.

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Features of the

A farm building in a dacha is a separate building for household needs, which differs from a residential building in a number of features. The main ones are several points.

  • Low weight of supporting structures. There are no heavy load-bearing structures and insulation in the shed, so the pressure on the foundation is minimal.
  • There is no heating in the outbuildings - the building does not warm up even in severe winter frosts.
  • It is built from inexpensive materials, so the cost of construction is very low.
  • The structure is simple in shape, no frills. This is a building that does not require any architectural complexities, external beauty, communications.
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Species overview

Whatever type of foundation is chosen, the first stage of its construction will be the same - marking and routing. Mark the corners using a tape measure and wooden stakes. In the right places, the stakes are driven into the ground and the string is pulled over them. Then, using a level, the horizontal surface is adjusted, and the corners are leveled. Further, depending on the type of foundation, the process of its creation is very different.

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Columnar

If the future outbuilding is small and simple in shape, the pillars are installed only in the corners. For a more complex structure, they need to be placed every 1–1.5 m. After laying out the placement of the pillars, it is necessary to dig holes 0.4 by 0.4 m in size. This can be done using an ordinary garden drill. Then put crushed stone and sand on the bottom with a thickness of at least 0.2 m. The next step is to directly install the pillars, which must be covered with a waterproofing layer so that they do not collapse from water.

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Screw

It is not required to prepare the type of soil, because metal piles with a sharp end and cutting blades are used as support, which are easily mounted into the soil. The markup, where the supports will be, is made in the same way as for the columnar version of the foundation block.

Metal piles are screwed into the ground like self-tapping screws, with one difference that 2-3 people are required. In the upper part of the pile there is a hole for scrap, which makes their installation much easier. The design must be checked with a level. The excess length of metal piles is cut using a grinder. It is recommended to fill the inner part of the pile with concrete, so the supporting structure will become even stronger and more reliable.

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Slab

This type of foundation requires significantly more investment of labor and finance. To fill a monolithic block, you need to dig a pit, the size of which should correspond to the dimensions of the future structure. At the very bottom, sand and crushed stone are laid out in layers of 10–20 cm. Then they are carefully tamped, after which they begin to build the formwork, which should rise 10-15 cm above the soil level. Then the reinforcement is laid, it must be poured with a continuous layer of concrete.

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Tape

They dig a trench, the width of which can reach 0.5 m. This is done strictly according to the markings, observing right angles. Sand is laid out at the bottom, which is carefully tamped. Then the formwork is mounted with a height of at least 20 cm from the ground. Next, fittings are laid, which are poured with concrete.

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From blocks

The blocks are installed on a monolithic reinforced cushion or a completely monolithic base. In the first case, the foundation will come out cheaper. For a block foundation, a hole is dug in accordance with the size of the shed, then a layer of sand is laid out, which is moistened with water and carefully tamped. Then a layer of rubble is poured, which also needs to be tamped. Then, concrete blocks are installed around the perimeter of the future shed, the position of which must be adjusted using a level.

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Drilling piles

Most often, a shallow pile type of foundation is used on complex soil: clay, sand, heaving soil. The installation of piles under the utility block consists in screwing them into the ground with the help of scrap. This process can be easily handled by 2 people without the involvement of any equipment. However, it is better to involve a third assistant to control the vertical entry of the support.

Important! This type of foundation requires calculations that depend on the composition of the soil along the entire depth of the support, therefore, to take samples, you will first have to do a trial installation.

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Which foundation to choose based on the type of soil?

First you need to choose a place. The location of the building should be convenient for use and not spoil the appearance of the site. You can choose a place with soil that is unsuitable for growing plants. Inexperienced builders for the construction of outbuildings choose pillars from wall blocks 20X20X40 cm. They explain this by the fact that the shed will be light and small. However, the wrong choice of support structure can lead to unexpected consequences:

  • heaving forms in clay soil, which will easily knock down the foundation supports;
  • the low weight of the barn will not be able to resist the forces of heaving;
  • precipitation in winter and autumn will quickly destroy the reinforcement in the supports and the concrete structure itself, which cracks severely after freezing when wet.

All these undesirable consequences can be easily avoided if, when choosing the type of foundation, the groundwater level, terrain and soil composition are taken into account. This does not mean that it is necessary to order geological studies, which will cost the developer more than the construction of the entire outbuilding.

And also do not focus on neighboring areas with buildings on certain types of foundations, since the soil even among neighbors can be very different.

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The least costly and at the same time effective process of soil investigation is the screwing in of the supports for the sample. With its help, you can determine at what depth the bearing layer is. This is recognized by a sharp increase in tightening. To exclude the force of heaving, it is necessary to select a layer that lies below the freezing mark in the region of use. Next, you need to determine the type of soil layers on the territory of the future construction.

  • Gravel or rocky ground, as well as coarse sand are the best soils for the construction of outbuildings on them. There will be enough pillars from a wall block or brick, they must be deepened by several rows.
  • Sandy loam can swell, so if the pillars are selected, then they must be additionally insulated under the sole or the drill piles must be poured into a permanent formwork made of roofing material or pipes (asbestos or polyethylene).
  • On clay, loam, constantly wet soil is better to install a foundation of screw piles. This method will cost more. In addition, manufacturers have begun to produce concrete screw piles, which have a higher level of corrosion protection.

Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is recommended that an individual developer first make a test screwing in, since the foundation on loose soils and heaving soils sags heavily.

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How to do it yourself?

A barn in the traditional sense is a fairly light building, which is erected either from boards or shields, or lightweight materials are used for construction: foam blocks and gas blocks. Variants of sheds from these materials are budgetary and easy to build. Any of the proposed options for an inexpensive foundation is perfect for a barn. It is important to take into account the composition of the soil, the level of the groundwater level, the terrain, the type of floor, the weight and purpose of the building.

You can also build a brick or timber shed, but you need to take into account that it will cost much more. Usually, these materials are used if they are going to build a major household block, consisting, in addition to a barn, of a garage and premises for keeping domestic animals. Then you just need a foundation built on shallow concrete strips, which is important to calculate correctly.

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Before starting the construction of a columnar type foundation, you need to level the site and remove the fertile soil layer. Then the site is marked out, pegs with a rope are hammered along the contour of the future outer perimeter. It is quite simple to mark the site, it is much more difficult to try so that the mating sides of the contour are as perpendicular as possible. The marking stage is the most time-consuming operation in the construction of a columnar foundation, requiring a lot of patience. To make all the corners of the shed under construction clear and straight, you need to use special devices for marking, which look like 2 frames.

According to the finished marking, you need to make marks for the placement of the supports. For a shed with a size of 2x4 m, a foundation is required on 12 support pillars. For the stability of the pillars, they are buried in the soil by 15–20 cm. In the dug holes, you need to make a pillow: pour a layer of rubble, a layer of sand on it and tamp it properly.

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Using ready-made cinder blocks instead of foundation supports is the easiest option. It is considered more labor-intensive to independently manufacture pillars by ebb tide using reusable formwork made of plastic lining. In this case, the amount of work increases significantly.

  • Assemble the formwork, fix it in the pit, level it with a vertical plumb line.
  • Pour with concrete. When the concrete has set, the formwork is removed.
  • While the concrete is still wet, level the top edge horizontally with a knife so that all the foundation supports are at the same level.

Attention! It is very difficult to adjust the support pillars in height, therefore, instead of cutting, in some cases, an anchor bolt is driven into dry concrete to secure the harness, and the height of the post is adjusted using wood or metal pads.

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When the foundation is urgently needed, you can install cinder blocks instead of supports. At first, they try to settle or tamp them on a sandy cushion so that the tops of all supporting pillars are in the same plane. Then pits with supports are poured with concrete mortar for complete fixation.

Next, you need to install a strapping of pine timber. The corners are connected in half a tree, fixed only with nails. It is undesirable to use screws, since the connection with nails is capable of playing under different loads, and at the point of the connection with the screws, the wood splits. The perimeter of the base is also assembled into half a tree, then the cross beams are sawn and cut. Then the wood is pickled, and the strapping is sewn up with a 20 mm edged board.

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Tire poles are an economical option. Many owners of private houses in landscaping and construction use car tires that have exhausted their resource. They can also be used for foundations as formwork or structural material. On different soils, the technology for making the foundation is different and mainly depends on the content of clay in the soil.

  • If the soils are heaving, then in the corners and under long walls at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other pits are dug into which the tires are stacked. Inside, the tires are filled with crushed stone and compacted using a rammer. Backfilling is usually done with sand.
  • If the soil is coarse sand, crushed stone or rocky, the fertile layer is removed, the dug pits are filled with sand and compacted using a vibrating plate. Concrete of grade M15 and higher is poured inside the tires, the mixture is compacted by bayonetting.

The method of using tires as supports has one major drawback: the large diameter. The wall rests on the center of the wheel, rubber protrudes in the corners on both sides and on one side under straight walls. Difficulties arise with the manufacture of a pick-up, in the absence of which rodents and moisture easily get into the underground. In such cases, the cladding is fixed on a frame imitating the base, or openings are cut out, and the tires are tried to be painted to make the facade look better.

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Attention! When concrete hardens, the entire structure may lose some of its damping properties, so it is advisable to stop at the first option if there is a danger of swelling.

Support posts can be made from cinder block. Cinder block is an inexpensive material consisting of the following components: slag, crushed stone, sand, cement and others. It makes an excellent foundation for large buildings (6X4). But it has certain disadvantages:

  • porous structure, and as a result, hygroscopicity;
  • increased thermal conductivity;
  • exposure to frost.
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The manufacture of the cinder block foundation occurs according to step-by-step instructions

  • Level the soil in the selected area.
  • Prepare a trench for a tape cinder block base.
  • Make a pillow at the bottom of the trench: pour in a sufficient layer of sand, gravel or limestone screenings, then tamp it well. For waterproofing purposes, lay a layer of roofing material in the trench.
  • Pour roofing material with a reinforced pillow or install a reinforced concrete block on it.
  • Lay out the first row of cinder blocks.
  • Lay the second row from the corners to the middle. Connect both rows with a centimeter thick concrete mortar.
  • For greater strength of the voids of the blocks, it is also recommended to fill with mortar.
  • When the foundation rises to the desired height, it is necessary to secure the grillage with a reinforcing belt.
  • The walls of the foundation are covered with mastic for fixing the thermal insulation. Styrofoam panels are commonly used. Fill up the pit, start laying the walls of the shed.
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Attention! To get an even foundation, it is necessary to install reinforcement in the corners and pull the rope along it. This serves as a masonry level.

You can find out how easy it is to mark the foundation for a barn (barn) from the video below.

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