Thermal Insulation Of A Bath: How To Insulate The Floor With Your Own Hands And How To Insulate Insulation In A Steam Room, Step-by-step Instructions For Insulating A Steam Room Fr

Table of contents:

Thermal Insulation Of A Bath: How To Insulate The Floor With Your Own Hands And How To Insulate Insulation In A Steam Room, Step-by-step Instructions For Insulating A Steam Room Fr
Thermal Insulation Of A Bath: How To Insulate The Floor With Your Own Hands And How To Insulate Insulation In A Steam Room, Step-by-step Instructions For Insulating A Steam Room Fr

Video: Thermal Insulation Of A Bath: How To Insulate The Floor With Your Own Hands And How To Insulate Insulation In A Steam Room, Step-by-step Instructions For Insulating A Steam Room Fr

Video: Thermal Insulation Of A Bath: How To Insulate The Floor With Your Own Hands And How To Insulate Insulation In A Steam Room, Step-by-step Instructions For Insulating A Steam Room Fr
Video: How to Insulate a floor to prevent Cold from below with EcoTec FloorFoam 2024, March
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In any bathhouse, a boiler, stove or other powerful source of heat is used for heating. But even these funds will be ineffective if you do not take care of proper insulation of the building.

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Features of the

It is imperative to insulate the room of a wooden bath. Even the relatively low thermal conductivity of the wood itself does not guarantee acceptable thermal protection. Old log structures could simply have been paved with something between the crowns. But the advent of more sophisticated and practical rounded logs made this approach impossible. Meanwhile, any bath should be designed as a kind of thermos that stably maintains internal heating regardless of the outside temperature.

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If the building was erected from expanded clay concrete blocks, the approach should be somewhat different. The main role in this case is played by thermal protection from the inside. Heat should be saved only at the moment when the bath is warmed up.

The outer protective layer hardly helps in this task. Moreover, systematic temperature changes can destroy any kind of insulating substance.

Stone blocks warm up faster and more significantly than wood, so a wood cladding is usually placed outside, and insulation is started under it. For all the importance of thermal protection inside, the quality of its external circuit cannot be ignored. It depends on it how resistant the walls will be to severe freezing. In addition to wall planes, it is required to additionally insulate:

  • ceiling;
  • floor;
  • foundation underneath.
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Quite a lot of baths are built on the basis of a cinder block, and here it is also necessary to decide which option of thermal protection will be the best. As with other stone details, it is recommended to use the outer and inner layers at the same time. A layer of thermal insulation is created on the floor, which is twice as thick as the main walls. Only then the screed is placed and the finishing is done. A crate is formed along the walls with the help of slats. The thickness of each rail is at least 5 cm; thermal protection is covered with foil-clad materials that retain water.

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Saving on waterproofing or external finishing of cinder blocks often turns into serious material losses, the inability to retain heat. Maximum attention should be paid to the preparation of air gaps. But apart from cinder concrete, private developers also use other economical construction materials.

So, you can find dozens and hundreds of baths built from sleepers. These are reliable and proven structures that can withstand strong mechanical loads, but they will also need to be insulated.

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The gaps from one part to another are filled with polyurethane foam. The insulation is laid out over the first crown, and later over the subsequent ones, as soon as a certain tier is finished and mechanically fastened. Much more often, however, than the "railway" bath, there are structures made of planks. You can insulate the frame structure:

  • mineral wool;
  • fiberglass;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • the most affordable penoizol.
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The real practical properties of these materials differ much less than their manufacturers try to show in their advertisements. Therefore, the main attention should be devoted not to the choice of the ideal solution, but to strict adherence to the technology. Expanded polystyrene almost does not need waterproofing. But the vapor barrier will have to be built in any case. In the market, the newest thermal protection for frame buildings, such as penoizol, occupies an increasingly strong position.

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If you want to use the old chopped sauna, there is no reason to refuse it for technical reasons. Modern technologies even make it possible to raise the characteristics of such buildings to a new level. It is logical to use the most natural insulation materials for the log house that do not degrade its environmental characteristics. The overwhelming majority of professional teams prefer basalt wool in this case. The tow, which has been used for many centuries, holds back drafts well and prevents heat from leaving, but it serves too little.

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Among the different varieties of moss, the best is cuckoo flax, which is immune to moisture. But any mosses are easily damaged by moths. Special treatment prevents such a development of events, but there is no need to talk about the complete naturalness of the coating after it. The combination of flax and jute has an increased service life; the disadvantage of this combination is the increased cost. But the convenience of insulation and the impossibility of decay will delight any consumer.

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Working with different types of buildings

The tree is distinguished by the best ratio in terms of thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, hygroscopicity, sanitary safety.

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But even a relatively low (in comparison with other construction materials) heat leakage to the outside often turns out to be unjustifiably large for specific people. Each log or piece of coal in the furnace, each revolution of the gas (electric) meter significantly increases operating costs. It is not worth insulating wooden walls from the inside, because the dew point is inside, the temperatures on the surface will change dramatically, in addition, useful space is wasted.

To insure the wood and insulation from the effects of extreme heat, it is recommended to put metal sheets, lay bricks or use heat-resistant drywall. Insulation is applied to the boards in a continuous layer, and the frame is first mounted on the logs.

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When building a bath using frame technology, heat protection is performed using plates or mats. Rolled coverings are acceptable, but it is very difficult to lay them out inside the frame. Until recently, basalt wool was considered an absolutely safe coating, but since 2014 it has become clear that this is not the case. When heated, the adhesive mixtures used to bond the fibers can begin to release formaldehyde.

Chemists cannot say how great the danger is - research is still underway, but at least for the steam room it is better to use other options.

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The frame bath is perfectly insulated with linen mats, which are made by simple pressing and do not contain the slightest artificial inclusions. At the same time, strong compression allows you to retain heat and stably hold the originally created structure. Creating a classic type of wall cake, the insulation material is exposed from the outer planks to the interior decoration of the rooms.

Outside, the bathhouse, built using frame technology, can be insulated only as an auxiliary method. Typical thickness of the layout of materials - 5 and 10 cm; for buildings that will be used year-round, you need to take the largest figure and fold it in half.

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From foam blocks

Insulation of foam concrete walls is a fairly simple matter, and even beginners in the field of construction will be able to cope with it. There is no need to level the plane, it is ideal already at the moment when the blocks come off the conveyor. Outdoor insulation of foam blocks is made by almost all existing materials; an exception is made for blatantly inconvenient or impractical solutions. Most experts recommend putting decorative plaster on the insulation - it will not only improve the appearance, but also help to enhance heat protection. If the front finishing is done using siding, you should still not rely on an air gap, but use a full-fledged insulation under the finishing strips.

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Work on the insulation of the foam concrete wall is carried out simultaneously with its installation, and the first steps must be taken already during the construction of the foundation. It is permissible at this stage to use only those materials that tolerate excessive moisture, temperature changes and the action of soil animals, rodents and insects well.

Styrofoam turns out to be the ideal solution, besides, it is easy to install and is relatively inexpensive. Cold flowing floors in foam concrete baths are not insulated at all. Mineral wool is most often placed on top. There, vapors will least of all seep inside, and at the same time the level of thermal protection will be higher than that of an identical bulk layer. Given the properties of foam blocks, all walls are necessarily supplied with steam barriers.

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Brick

Brick baths are solid and durable, for many decades they were practically the standard, and even now they are appreciated. But a decrease in fire hazard and an increase in strength in comparison with wood turns into a significant heat consumption. Internal heat protection in a brick bath is formed mainly with the help of an auxiliary wall along the main body. Alternatively, you can put two layers of rolled or slab insulation. Smart builders combine the twoespecially in areas with harsh winters and strong winds.

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In a brick bath, heat protection of the floor is carried out using expanded clay or polystyrene; other means are rarely used. The vertical course of warming bases using foam or PPU is not available for amateur builders, this should be done by specialists. A vapor barrier and thermal insulation are applied to the sub floor, then a reinforcing mesh is exposed. Already on the grid, it will be easy to form a cement screed. When the shrinking solution dries, it is treated with waterproofing and laid out with ceramic tiles.

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Floor arrangement and selection of tools

The work of arranging the floor in the bath requires the use of a variety of tools. Since in most cases they are formed from wood (this is especially true for steam rooms), you need to use a regular carpentry kit. The floor can be made with the passage of water in the crevices or in one separate drain. This drain is directed in one direction, otherwise the stability of the water outflow cannot be guaranteed. If the floor is formed without ducts, a non-removable flooring is located under it, which must be replaced only at the end of the working life.

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To make the surface warmer, the gutter and the drain leading into it are placed in the lowest place. The design of removable floors implies the possibility of periodic disassembly at a time when the bath is not in use. When forming the screed, you will need a cement trowel and special rakes, trowels and spatulas of various sizes. The evenness of structures is ensured using a level (hydraulic or laser).

Wood floors are created with a hammer, a plumber, an electric plane, a screwdriver, and a drill.

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Types of heaters and requirements for them

Indispensable requirements for any heaters will be:

  • minimal hygroscopicity;
  • lack of emission of harmful substances;
  • optimal reflection of heat inward.
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Among high-tech developments, attention is drawn to itself "Penotherm" … It is difficult to call it a new option, but this is even a plus - there is already a relatively long experience of using it. As practice has shown, neither mineral coatings nor polyurethane foam can be compared with this method of thermal protection. In baths and saunas, it is used only in the form of sheets covered with foil on the outside. Marking "NPP LF" shows that the basis of the material is low density polyethylene; a layer of aluminum helps to withstand stable heating up to 170 degrees.

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"LP" - series, which is made of polypropylene in sheet format. Such a coating is not able to withstand temperatures above 60 degrees. Therefore, it can only be used for floors and walls in dressing rooms, rest rooms and dressing rooms, vestibules.

It is unacceptable to use "Penotherm" marked as "LE" in bath houses for technical reasons. Heat protection functions stably when heated to 1500 degrees, without losing even mechanical characteristics.

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Any aluminum-based foil material has such advantages as:

  • rapid heating of the internal volume;
  • excellent thermal inertia;
  • stable retention of steam flow.
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According to statistics, up to 4/5 of the total volume of heat is transferred in the room in the form of infrared rays. The aluminum screen becomes an impenetrable bulwark for them, does not release precious heat energy outside. Thanks to modern technologies, foil can be single, double or even triple in composition. The widespread belief that the aluminum layer must be completely open for normal operation is fundamentally wrong. On the contrary, if finishing materials are placed outside - the same lining, their thermal qualities increase markedly.

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Importantly, the air inside the bath is warmed up more evenly. But the foil must be glued directly to the main insulation layer, because otherwise the air gap will increase the heat transfer. On top of stone walls, a metal reflector is best used overlapping stone wool or slab material.

It is important to remember that not every roll of special wool sold in construction markets and in stores is suitable for use in a bath. Some manufacturers go for the trick and use cheap but hazardous additives to increase water resistance.

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Minvata is generally not afraid of fire and is considered one of the relatively safe materials. Covering it with foil on top further reduces even the small risk of toxin release that still remains after finishing. The coating stably tolerates up to 200 heating and freezing cycles, and even after that it does not need to be replaced. The total service life can reach 30 years, and the high mechanical strength will greatly delight those who like to drill bath walls and hang additional items on them.

A prerequisite for the installation of wadded insulation is a high-quality crate.

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The step of the support structure is determined in such a way that the heat-insulating plates enter freely inside, but at the same time they are held tightly enough. Waterproofing is carried out using either a special type of foil, or polyethylene with a thickness of 150-200 microns, or using foam foam. In frame baths, the waterproofing layer is made strictly of foil, and a lining is placed above it. The layer of basalt wool should be 6 cm. Kraft paper can be used as a substitute for aluminum foil.

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The foil can also be presented in the foil-insolone format - so called polyethylene with a sprayed aluminum layer. The advantage of such a coating can be considered that it guarantees excellent noise absorption and is much stronger than the usual analogue. In addition, the containment of heat is provided, not only when it is reflected, but also due to the reduced permeability. The cost and environmental characteristics are primarily affected by the insulation that is used as the basis. It also determines the resistance to aggressive influences, especially intense in the steam room.

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It should be borne in mind that aluminum perfectly transmits electricity. Therefore, all the wires in the walls will have to be insulated especially carefully. A high-quality lathing will help to make the foil surface stronger and prepare the base for finishing. The permissible aluminum layer ranges from 30 to 300 microns. When using a well-calculated surface, it is possible to achieve the same effect as when building a thick and heavy log house.

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Step-by-step instruction

It is very important to imagine how the thermal insulation from the inside will be formed in stages with your own hands. This is useful even when ordering the services of professional builders. Many of them, faced with insufficient control or weak competence of the customer, try to choose the easiest and most profitable paths for themselves. The first step in the work, regardless of the choice of traditional or ultra-modern insulation, is a thorough preparation of the surface of the walls.

If mistakes are made at this stage, all subsequent actions are irrelevant.

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It is unacceptable to put foam in the steam room, it emits substances extremely hazardous to health. According to the technology, joints of slab insulation of any kind are supposed to be glued with foil tape. It will form a sealed layer with a very high level of thermal protection. Plates or rolls are recommended to be placed in the cells of the crate, which is assembled from a wooden bar. The section of this bar is determined by how strong the thermal insulation should be (minus 10-20 mm from the real value).

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If you have to fill the wall with something loose, the bars are separated from each other by 0.45-0.6 m. The details of the crate are attached to the wooden substrate using dowels or self-tapping screws; when a stone, brick, concrete is located further, only anchors help. In the first case, the deepening of the fasteners by 20-25 mm is enough, and they must go into the main walls by at least 40 mm. But it is not worthwhile to exceed the value that is justified for securing a certain type of timber, these are only unnecessary costs.

With the exception of basalt wool glued in production with aluminum foil, all materials need reinforced insulation from moisture.

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Insulation on a concrete screed will require a whole range of additional elements. You will definitely need reinforcing nets, special mixtures (ready-made or made up of primary components) that set the course of the beacons. Also, it will not be possible to do without a tape that dampens thermal contraction and expansion, without polyethylene. Whether the floor is made of wood or concrete is irrelevant, but a larger amount of expanded clay should be poured under the concrete surface … The minimum excess is 100%, but if the overall height of the room and material capabilities allow, you can even exceed this figure - it will come out more reliably.

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Before insulating the floor on the ground before marking, it is required:

  • tamp all the soil in the desired area;
  • impregnate the walls with waterproofing;
  • pour 0.1 m of sand, cover with water and tamp thoroughly;
  • spread the roofing material with a 15 cm approach to the walls.
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Single sheets of material are also laid with a mutual foray of 0.15 m. The connection at the joints is provided with construction tape (necessarily waterproof). The placement of the guides on the subfloor is carried out in strict accordance with the decorated markings. You can fix these guides in an arbitrary way, if only it is reliable. Trying to do without guides is sheer stupidity, because even trained professionals use them.

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Insulation of the attic is even more important than thermal insulation of the facade. You cannot approach this work in the same way as in an ordinary house. Indeed, in the sauna room, the upper part constantly concentrates water vapor. In most cases, they use:

  • mineral wool;
  • glass wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • clay;
  • sawdust;
  • a combination of moss and wood ash (for walls and floors only).
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As for the foam, it should be used only in an extreme situation, when there is simply no other way to save money. The cheapest option is to use cut sawdust, it is also characterized by increased environmental friendliness. Thin laths of timber are stuffed across the boards, the distance between them is about 1 m. The vapor barrier is overlapped, the canvases move about 20 mm. To obtain a suitable solution, 40-50 kg of clay are mixed with 200 liters of water; after adding sawdust, the mixture should become one consistency.

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Such a coating is applied with a thickness of 80-100 mm, while tamping it a little. Especially carefully you will have to lubricate the intersections of walls and ceilings. There will inevitably be gaps - and each of them will be filled. In a large bath, sawdust is easily replaced with expanded clay. You can also use garden soil or a mixture of black soil with peat in equal proportions.

Since the temperature in the washing and dressing room, as well as in the relaxation room, is clearly lower than in the steam room, they can be insulated with foam. It is relatively safe there, although it is still worth considering an alternative solution. If the choice is nevertheless made precisely in favor of polystyrene, it is either glued (to brick and concrete), or placed in a stuffed frame. Given the insensitivity of this material to water, it does not need to be covered with special films. All that remains is to complete the finishing.

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Surround the furnace itself or the boiler, the places of adjoining to other structures are allowed only with basalt wool. Insulation in the basement of the bath has its own characteristics. The basement floor is supposed to be insulated both outside and inside. If everything is done correctly, the total heat loss can be reduced by 10-15%. The most suitable solutions to this problem are traditional foam and extruded polystyrene foam. These materials are not only minimally sensitive to water, which invariably circulates in the soil, but also excellently resist external pressure.

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But mineral wool is categorically not justified in this case. There is nothing to burn there, given the high risk of moisture destruction, you will have to make a complex waterproofing system that will absorb all the savings. When using foam, although it masks deformations up to 1 cm, it is better to correct such curvatures, it will turn out more reliably. When leveling the basement of the sauna with plaster, sometimes two or three coats have to be applied; each should only be laid on a dry substrate.

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Walls

Insulation of walls from the outside is extremely rarely carried out separately. After all, it will then lead to an incorrect distribution of heat in the thickness of the material. The walls, floor and ceiling will warm up first, and only then the air temperature will rise. This, of course, is not at all what is expected from a quality bath.

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External thermal protection is required if the bath room is combined with a residential building. It is logical to use it under finishing materials, when there is a convenient opportunity to improve the thermal qualities of the building. But in the case of non-residential baths, it is worth considering whether this is really so necessary. After all, even the most affordable thermal insulation has a very strong effect on your personal budget. If a decision is made, layers of steam and wind protection will definitely be needed. The design will include:

  • crate;
  • heat protection;
  • wind insulation;
  • counter-lattice;
  • final finishing layer.
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Formally, there is no need for a counter grill. But any experienced craftsmen put it in order to create a ventilation duct easier and faster. The tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic. If the installation is on a brick wall, it is advisable to use dowels, they compensate for the excessive rigidity of the structure and speed up the installation. Foam glass is technically perfect, but it turns out to be too expensive to use.

The choice of facing material is limited only by considerations of aesthetics and personal taste.

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Steam room: ceiling

Aerated concrete baths are built precisely because this material has an impressive level of thermal insulation. The structure will last a long time and will release only a small amount of heat outside. By this parameter, it comes close to the tree. But you still need to insulate the walls in the steam room with insulation in order to radically reduce the loss of expensive energy. Wood cladding turns out to be the most expensive ceiling solution in this room and absorbs a fair amount of height.

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Foam glass ultimately becomes even more profitable than board upholstery. In addition, it is superior to expanded polystyrene (which looks like it), since it does not emit toxins with significant heating. Installation of such a coating is carried out on tile glue, and when choosing this glue, primary attention should be paid to its safety. The same adhesive composition will act as a putty. It is undesirable to apply the mixture in excess, it will still be covered with clapboard.

Heat protection treatment of the steam room is often carried out with penofol. It is important to remember that it is only an addition to other coatings. High-quality work implies the installation of a package of penoplex and penofol; the air gap from the foil to the face layer is 1.5 cm. This gap improves the retention of both heat and steam. Polyurethane foam will help close the seams of the structure, and if you need to seal the intersections of the canvases, use tape for this.

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If the bath is built from a log, its thermal characteristics will be excellent. But this is not a reason to neglect modern technological solutions. A semblance of a "thermos" is necessarily created, and maximum attention is paid to the attic floor. It is this that is the weak link of log structures.

Before starting work, the tree is carefully inspected, problem areas are corrected and removed, treated with antiseptics.

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Floor

When thermal insulation of the verkhotury is provided, you can grab the base of the room. After all, even if the walls and ceiling are quite warm, but the floors are cold, this devalues all the work done. When using penoplex on lags, you need:

  • lay insulation between the elements on the subfloor;
  • imitate the base (by laying out the lining around the perimeter);
  • create air vents for ventilation (each at least 0.05 sq. m);
  • put a blind area on the perimeter in order to improve the discharge towards various drains and precipitation.
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Some believe that it is possible to impregnate wooden parts located on piles with antiseptics. But the usual types of impregnations will evaporate already in the sixth or seventh year of use. Therefore, you should carefully choose the mixture and give preference to compositions that are deeply ingrained into the tree. If the bath is built on screw piles, even the most powerful floor insulation will not help to ensure its normal operation. We'll have to equip the intake and thereby prevent excessive ventilation of the underground.

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Insulation of a concrete floor with expanded clay is a real salvation for those who want to guarantee the environmental safety of a building. In addition, this material is relatively inexpensive and can be assembled without expensive equipment by anyone. It is advisable to choose the lightest varieties: they are not only more convenient during transportation, but also more efficiently block the escape of heat to the outside. There are three key working methods:

  • wet;
  • dry;
  • mixed.
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The dry method is practiced mainly in wooden buildings. The substance is poured into the intervals of lags or lighthouses, and a rough floor is made on top. At the bottom, waterproofing always unfolds. It is easy and pleasant to work in this way, the result is achieved quickly. The wet technique involves mixing expanded clay with a typical concrete solution.

Thermal insulation of bath floors with penoplex is quite widespread. The technology of work does not have any particular difficulties, moreover, it is quite accessible for any novice builder. At the bottom, you will have to put a substrate of sand and gravel or make a concrete floor. However, Penoplex is ideal both on top of a rough wooden floor, and as one of the parts of the "pie" of a warm floor. But you cannot put the material on damp soil, it must dry thoroughly.

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The bath floor is always equipped with a water drain, and this circumstance cannot be ignored when working on thermal insulation. Square or rectangular point drains are small and can be installed anywhere. The slope for directing water into the drain is at least 1%, which is important not to overlook when designing the floor cake. The optimal solution is compacted extruded polystyrene foam.

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Openings

Even when all surfaces in the bath keep warm, there is at least one problem area - the doorway. As soon as the first frosts begin or the wind blows out, omissions in its insulation will have very serious consequences. Foamed polyethylene with an outer foil sheath will help insulate the canvas and not overload it. In terms of specific gravity, it is comparable to paints and varnishes. The jamb is upholstered with either felt or more modern products, as long as they fit snugly to the surface and are soft to the touch, resistant to water.

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Roof

Insulated ceiling, floor, doorway - very good. But there is still one more channel for the release of heat, that is, the roof. A metal chimney pipe is usually brought out through it, and steel, as you know, "perfectly" helps to "withdraw" the funds spent on heating outside. In saunas with cold attics or in the absence of an attic, roof slopes and planes are not insulated. But if a residential attic is located at the top, there can be no two opinions - thermal insulation is required.

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The ceiling is insulated from the inside (from the steam room) using metallized film materials. When installing fibrous thermal protection, it should be covered with a waterproofing membrane that conducts the steam flow strictly in one direction. Laying insulation (with laying the boards and filling them with expanded clay) is carried out only on the wooden ceiling.

In this case, the load should be calculated so that it does not exceed the bearing capacity of the walls and floors.

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Underfloor heating system

It is quite a reasonable idea to insulate the floor in a bath by equipping it with heating circuits. Moreover, problems with obtaining hot water disappear by themselves. Such a measure is especially attractive when concrete is laid below, as it very quickly "draws out" the heat. It is preferable to supply water to pipes made of polyethylene, steel alloys or metal-plastic. The spiral option for laying the pipeline is both simple and comfortable (heat will dissipate evenly over the entire surface).

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Tips & Tricks

Thermal insulation of a bath is subject to the same laws as the thermal insulation of a house. But elevated temperatures and significant humidity make it possible to use far from all coatings suitable for ordinary rooms. So, among mineral wool, it is definitely not harmful to use only the latest modifications, which are combined with the help of biologically neutral acrylic. Peat blocks filled with sawdust or straw prevent bacteria from growing, but absorb water. It is advisable to consider the option with cork mats - they are mechanically strong and not saturated with liquid, they stop heat well.

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If the bath is insulated with natural materials, then it will be correct to process them with special compounds that block the effects of insects, rodents and microorganisms. It is advisable to caulk log cabins and beams with jute (flax). When a bath with brick walls is insulated, rolled and slab products are most often placed in a steel frame with a zinc profile. The layer of mineral insulation on logs and beams can be limited to 80 mm (if there is no danger of severe frosts). In order for the insulator to retain its characteristics, it is taken 2-3 mm thinner than the cross-section of the bars.

For information on how and with what to insulate the bath, see the next video.

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