Insulation Of The Ceiling In A Wooden House: How To Insulate With Mineral Wool, Which Insulation Is Better To Choose, We Insulate It With Our Own Hands

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Insulation Of The Ceiling In A Wooden House: How To Insulate With Mineral Wool, Which Insulation Is Better To Choose, We Insulate It With Our Own Hands
Insulation Of The Ceiling In A Wooden House: How To Insulate With Mineral Wool, Which Insulation Is Better To Choose, We Insulate It With Our Own Hands

Video: Insulation Of The Ceiling In A Wooden House: How To Insulate With Mineral Wool, Which Insulation Is Better To Choose, We Insulate It With Our Own Hands

Video: Insulation Of The Ceiling In A Wooden House: How To Insulate With Mineral Wool, Which Insulation Is Better To Choose, We Insulate It With Our Own Hands
Video: Шумoизoляция квартиры. Материалы для шумоизоляции. Шумoизoляция потолка и стен 2024, March
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The roof and ceiling must reliably protect the residents of the house not only from precipitation, but also from temperature changes. By itself, wood retains heat pretty well, but it still needs additional protection. Doing it properly can be tricky.

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Features of the

In a wooden house, it turns out to be a completely logical step to use wood to create floors: builders put beams, lined with boards from below. The lack of heating in the upper part of the building turns into the need for its insulation. And even when a residential attic is equipped, insulating materials help save fuel and increase the level of sound insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling from a bar in a village house can be done properly only after elimination of defects in the wooden surface. They are covered with tow, polymer fibers or blown out with polyurethane foam … You should not try to save time using different materials: regardless of their properties, it will not work to compensate for the shortcomings of the base in this way. Compaction or caulking work must be done with the utmost responsibility and conscientiousness. Many experts consider jute fiber to be the most practical solution.

Before insulation, wooden structures must be treated with antiseptic compounds in order to suppress the accelerated development of parasitic fungi and other microorganisms. In particularly difficult cases, the treatment is carried out twice to increase the effectiveness of the protection.

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How can you insulate?

But the importance of preparation does not mean that the choice of insulation is not significant enough.

Most often used in suburban buildings:

  • mineral wool;
  • expanded clay;
  • expanded polystyrene and its subspecies - polystyrene;
  • sawdust.
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The bulk of developers actively use mineral wool, which is relatively inexpensive and installed without unnecessary problems, excellently retains its consumer qualities for a long time.

A layer of mineral wool improves the soundproofing characteristics of the floor; at the same time, the weak points are the accumulation of moisture (with a weakening of the thermal insulation properties) and a high sanitary risk.

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Using foam, you can guarantee complete environmental safety. Expanded polystyrene plates (this is the official name of the material) are very light, are little prone to crumbling and transmit heat even less than the usual packaging material. When exposed to water, polystyrene foam does not suffer at all and can provide excellent insulation even at a relatively low thickness.

Unfortunately, expanded polystyrene burns well, and rodents often arrange their moves in it.

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Thermal insulation with expanded clay is also widespread in wooden houses, because this material:

  • does not require significant expenses;
  • under favorable conditions it works more efficiently and longer than any other;
  • does not suffer from contact with water;
  • non-flammable and mechanically strong.
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People began to use sawdust much earlier than blocks of expanded clay and expanded polystyrene. This method does not harm the environment and therefore you can safely apply it even now. Any sawmill will sell wood processing waste at an exceptionally low price, and professional builders or people who often harvest firewood can collect the necessary material themselves.

But one has to reckon with the danger of fire and the fact that sawdust retains heat well only fresh. As soon as they dry out, get wet or caked (lose volume), the negative consequences will immediately make themselves felt.

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Insulation with penoplex (aka extruded polystyrene foam) is advisable because it is in no way inferior to mineral wool in its practical characteristics and is relatively inexpensive. But the increased risk of ignition has to be taken into account, although this is not an insurmountable obstacle in the work, you only need to use special impregnations.

The equipment of a special vapor barrier layer helps to cope with high permeability to water vapor, the creation of which must be approached with all seriousness.

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The same options can be used when insulating the attic floor in a private house; but it is advisable to leave the final choice to professional builders and designers, at least to consult with them before buying.

Installation methods

Arrangement of thermal insulation of ceilings in wooden houses splits into two parts: in one case, work is carried out in the attic or attic, opening the floor, in the other, they open the very upper part of the room and place the selected materials in it. The differences also apply to the technology of work, so both options should be considered separately from each other.

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Outside

When they begin to operate in the attic, the base is insulated with mineral wool only after the ceiling is filled on the beams (an edged board is used for it). In a house that has been used for a long time, there is no need to disassemble the existing ceiling and create a new one., it is enough to place a cellular frame on top of the attic floor … The gaps of the beams are filled with a material that retains steam flows, and it is not worth saving on it. Those homeowners who, in pursuit of economy, preferred simple polyethylene to foil solutions, could not insulate the building correctly and lose a lot of heat.

If there is already a floor in the attic, then it will not be possible to use a vapor barrier between the beams, but the problem can be solved, you just need to put it under the frame slabs. Only then comes the turn of mineral wool, and the technology provides for a slight narrowing of the laying step compared to the size of the slab. Going a little one on top of the other, they will thereby reduce the passage of cold air. at the joints and will increase work efficiency.

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The standard procedure involves laying from the corner farthest from the entrance. So that the cotton wool does not slip with each step, it makes sense to put plywood sheets on top (strictly on top of the waterproofing, if the attic has not been insulated and are not going to insulate). Then comes the turn of work with the finished floor.

Although the procedure for actions in a wooden house has been disassembled, the differences when insulating attic floors with your own hands in brick, block and concrete buildings are minimal.

A separate point is the thickness of the thermal insulation laid in the overlap between the floors of the house. This parameter does not change depending on the chosen design, although this is exactly what many novice builders think. Assuming what it takes insulate a cold attic with expanded clay or slag, then these materials are poured in 0.25-0.3 m each, and they are carefully leveledto avoid the slightest distortion of the next layer of the "pie". Next, a thin screed is placed and the slabs are pasted over with roofing material.

They try to use foam concrete less and less: the material itself is heavy, you have to put it at least 40 cm every time. The only plus is that there is no need for a screed.

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From within

The approach to insulating the ceiling in a wooden house from below differs from that described in the previous paragraph. And the point is not only that it is much more difficult to use bulk materials, the same sawdust, without spilling them into the room during work. The problem is also that the height of the room will be noticeably reduced, and this does not always suit the owners.

They always start work with laying waterproofing (many craftsmen prefer glassine). Its roll is unrolled on the floor and cut into strips so that each strip is 0.1 m larger than the gap from one beam to another.

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You will also need to work:

  • mineral wool (the choice of rolls or plates is a matter of taste);
  • foam (exactly 5 cm thick);
  • nails (the size of which is selected independently);
  • mounting foam;
  • slats 1 or 2 cm wide;
  • strong hammer;
  • construction knife;
  • electric jigsaw.
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The cut strips are attached to the side planes of the beams, after which the gaps are filled with foam (it must fit firmly, with the application of force, so that it does not fall out later). Do not forget that after the foam and building foam filling all the gaps, an additional layer of glassine must be used … Until all this is done, there can be no question of laying mineral wool.

It is most often placed in two layers, so that the joints of the lower plates coincide with the central parts of the upper ones (then the heat loss will be minimal).

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Frequent mistakes

As you have already seen, the technology of thermal insulation of the base of the attic in a wooden house is simple. But even in the simplest case, when using time-tested and well-proven solutions, mistakes can be made.

The use of modern materials also does not give a complete guarantee of success. Therefore, you need to know well what kind of mistakes can be made in this case.

  • One of them has already been discussed - this is insulation without checking the quality of wood. If it is brand new and fully meets all the requirements, that is very good. But when you need to insulate a log house that has served for more than one year, it would be better to spend a little time checking than to subsequently suffer from your own laziness and inattention. The house where the bug has settled, nothing will save and provide comfort.
  • It cannot be assumed that the best insulation can be stored in any way. By delivering it home and leaving it for some time before work, you will have to take care of maximum dryness. Even the most reliable products and structures, which are declared by manufacturers as moisture resistant, can lose their valuable properties in case of premature contact with water.
  • It is unacceptable to remove the film or open the packaging in an open place; it is advisable to do this no earlier than 24 hours before use and in the insulated building itself.
  • After laying, you need to quickly close the material with waterproofing and, in general, speed up the rough finish.
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Helpful hints

  • It is possible to use expanded clay, with all its positive properties, only in houses with strong, well-arranged beams. The thing is that this material creates a powerful load on the base - from 200 to 400 kg per 1 sq. m, depending on the thickness of the applied layer.
  • When choosing polymer heaters, you should focus on their more expensive varieties, which have increased resistance to fire.
  • You should not rely on the correct installation of the battens when laying roll materials, it is better to secure them additionally with dowels.
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See below for more details.

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