Grooved Board For The Floor (37 Photos): Dimensions Of Larch Sheet Piling, Grinding And Laying With Your Own Hands

Floor 2023

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Grooved Board For The Floor (37 Photos): Dimensions Of Larch Sheet Piling, Grinding And Laying With Your Own Hands
Grooved Board For The Floor (37 Photos): Dimensions Of Larch Sheet Piling, Grinding And Laying With Your Own Hands

Video: Grooved Board For The Floor (37 Photos): Dimensions Of Larch Sheet Piling, Grinding And Laying With Your Own Hands

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Sheet Piling Installation Animation Video 2023, February
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Flooring actually completes the construction of the new home and, in many cases, the finish of the old one. Until this work is done, the rooms cannot be considered complete. In living rooms, in contrast to utility rooms, it is recommended to use a tongue-and-groove board, but it must be applied skillfully, precisely following the established rules. They relate to both the styling itself and its choice.

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Features of the

The grooved board is equipped with a longitudinal one-sided groove. A spike is placed on the opposite side, which should be buried in the groove of the adjacent board when laying. This move ensures that the product will last a long time and will not be blown out. Even a deck board cannot have such high characteristics. Products are carefully adjusted in terms of geometric parameters, the side parts are cut off, the front sides are thoroughly polished.

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The tongue-and-groove boards, thanks to the channels on the conventionally lower side, are well ventilated. The formation of spikes and grooves on the sides allows you to limit yourself to a smaller amount of grinding than when using edged boards. The tongue-and-groove is quite a beautiful option, reliable in operation and mechanically strong. However, all these advantages are achieved only under one condition - with the correct selection of material.

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Materials (edit)

In practice, oak, larch and pine are of key importance. Pine flooring is relatively cheap, but its softness translates into a high risk of warping. As a result, in areas where people walk more often and more, "paths" appear after a while.

You can correct the situation by applying a low-wear varnish, with which the floor is covered in two layers.

The larch option is much more expensive, but the cost is fully justified by the increased durability of the floor and the ability to use boards without covering them with anything extra. Most often, larch is impregnated with oil solutions, which make it possible to avoid the formation of solid films on the surface. Ash and oak grooved boards are considered elite types of flooring, but external beauty, exceptional density and minimal wear turn around increased costs for buyers… It is extremely rare that such floors are covered with additional layers, since their natural aesthetics are enough to solve the task at hand.

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You need wood has always been dry (dried in a special technological chamber). When sawing, the humidity must not rise to more than 15%. Keep in mind that these kinds of tricks will greatly increase the cost of tongue-and-groove boards compared to natural drying, and even less waiting will not lower product prices. One way or another, humidity control is carried out with a special device.

Boards dried in chambers are delivered wrapped in polyethylene, then they cannot get saturated with moisture from the air. The simplest test is a sound one: a wet board necessarily gives a muffled echo when tapped on it, and a dried one always resonates. Putting a tree that is too wet, after it dries, you will notice cracks, and the service life of the coating will then not exceed six months. Drying elements crack and can even twist, and the only way to counteract this is to press the boards more tightly.

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Dimensions (edit)

The optimal thickness of a grooved board is 0.07-0.2 m, while it is important to pay attention to its width. Excessively narrow matting is difficult to install, and very wide matting can rise at the edges when dry.As a result of uplifts, "ribs" and irregularities appear.

Sanding can eliminate this problem, but it is costly and time-consuming.

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Typical lengths are 300 and 600 cm, although if you wish, you can purchase a board with a length of 4 meters or 5 meters. In any case, structures that are slightly inferior in length to the room as a whole are preferable. On sale, grooved products with a thickness of 21, 35, 50 mm are often found. remember, that for the manufacture of floors, only a coating not thinner than 2.7 cm is applicable (moreover, the minimum value is suitable only for utility rooms, and in the living room, the use of a coating of 3.5 cm or more is justified).

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How to choose?

The industry produces several varietal groups of floorboards. So, the Extra category simply cannot have defects, even the most insignificant ones. Under normal conditions, group A products are quite enough, which are only occasionally stained, and you will not find other deviations from the norm even with close inspection.

Marking B shows that the boards certainly have irregularities, there are not only spots, but also knots. Finally, group C can sometimes contain through notches after knot loss and deformations that are not normalized in size. The last category is not suitable for finishing (finishing) layers, but rough laying is quite possible for it.it even saves a lot of money.

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Never rely on the GOST marking, but carefully measure all parameters - they should be equal in each product and even in its individual parts. Curvature is easy to spot if you know what to look for.

The groove should be slightly deeper than the tongue, then there will be no need for additional processing. When buying grooved boards for an apartment and for a house, evaluate the observance of the distance from their upper edge to the connecting parts. If there is a discrepancy, you will either have to put up with the unevenness after laying different elements, or specially sand the wood. Of course, in production all this should be monitored, but it must be taken into account that the error can be large, and it is better to immediately be ready for additional work or refuse to buy.

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It is advisable to focus not only on reviews, but also on such an important characteristic as sawing wood. If it is classic, we can assume that the requirements of the state standard are fully met. The heaviest, thickest boards can only be obtained by splicing together. Of course, this technique allows you to achieve any length of the structure.

Judging by the comments of those who previously laid the tongue-and-groove floor, this is a fairly reliable and stable structure. An indispensable requirement for its use in bathrooms and other damp rooms is the use of larch (other types of wood are categorically unsuitable).

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How to stack?

To avoid the negative effects of drying out, the work is done in two stages. At first, only one plank is placed every four numbers. When 6 months have passed, the flooring needs to be sorted out, the cracks should be closed and all the material should be laid. remember, that The tongue-and-groove board in living rooms does not just dry out, it is mechanically deformed. And that is why the first time it is put upside down, and the second time it is turned over to its normal position. This technique allows you to make the coating clean, dry and completely reliable.

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Always buy a certain number of boards in excess of the estimated need, they will come in handy if there is free space when pulling the flooring. 2 or 3 elements must be added after drying. They should always be stored in the same room as the floor. Otherwise, the appearance will be much worse than expected.

The standard fastening is on nails, sometimes self-tapping screws are used. Choose a nail made from flexible steel grades that can withstand significant loads.Even if the board is bent, the fasteners will not break. But hammer them carefully, carefully monitoring the result. After all, it is very difficult to remove such a nail without breaking the floor covering itself.

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Curved boards cannot be replaced without removing the fasteners; it is also necessary to pull it out when bulkheading a drying floor. To face a minimum of problems, use self-tapping screws, and exclusively yellow, not black.

You can fix the tongue-and-groove board with your own hands - this is a very reliable technique, but not too elegant. The fasteners are driven into the front side of the board, a pair of self-tapping screws are used on each side, a distance of 50 mm must be maintained from the border. If you fasten it into the groove (by twisting the self-tapping screw into the lower part of the groove at an angle of 45 degrees), the hat will have to be driven deeper into the tree. Only such a condition will allow you to calmly place the following boards. The disadvantage of this generally simple approach is the risk of the boards splitting if they are twisted.

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Laying "in tongue" implies that the self-tapping screw captures 2/3 of the board in thickness, but you have to control so that the spike remains intact. Secret mounting is performed in such a way that the self-tapping screw does not interfere with the installation of the following blocks; the hole is prepared in advance, and the drill is taken of the same diameter as the head of the fastener. Most often, self-tapping screws are used 0.45 cm in girth and 7.5 cm in length.

Wooden tongue-and-groove products can be laid either on logs or on special supports (which will raise the top layer of the floor 7 cm above the base). But if the room has low ceilings, you will have to put plywood there so as not to absorb too much of the height. Support beams are used when the subfloor is too uneven. Each beam is at least 10 cm thick.

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Laying the boards at right angles to the logs, the usual construction step is made 0.6 m, and if the angle is less, then the swing is proportionally reduced. Never fill the gap separating the logs from the ground, otherwise ventilation will be impaired. It helps to avoid unnecessary noise when walking on the floor installation of a soundproof layer… In all living rooms, any beam must be directed at right angles to the window, and in corridors - parallel to the direction of movement.

When choosing plywood, make sure that it is not thinner than 1.8 cm, otherwise the boards can easily deform under the most common loads.

Work begins with checking the plane of the surface on which the plywood will be laid, and if it is not even enough, problems are immediately eliminated. The sheet is divided into strictly identical fragments, then the blanks are laid out on the floor, placing them diagonally to the boards and attached using dowels. Remove the plywood pieces by 0.2-0.3 cm and leave a gap of 1.5 cm to the wall (this is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion).

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The surface layer must be passed with a grinding device or a grinding attachment on a drill. Manually, minor flaws and roughness are eliminated with emery of the P24 or P36 category.

The tongue-and-groove board cannot be placed directly on the concrete base. The concrete itself must have a maximum moisture content of 3%, otherwise it will not be suitable for the intended purpose. Check also how even the screed is: the maximum allowable drop is 0.2% in relation to the length of the base. If it is less level, a squeak with every step will be inevitable. Too high places are polished, and the missing solution is added to the "lowlands".

The main difficulties for non-professional builders arise in cases when the grooved board is not placed in all rooms at the same time, but in one room. It can be very difficult to put her on the doorstep; if the board is located next to a wall with an opening, a strip covering the connection of dissimilar coatings is placed exactly in the middle of the opening width. Hence it follows that you need to use a wide tongue, cut off the wall and entering the opening.

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In cases where the board goes perpendicular to the opening, the approach is approximately the same, but all elements that are inserted into the depth should be longer than those that abut against the wall. It so happens that the floor in individual rooms is at different heights, then, in order to ensure that sagging is guaranteed, the steps are covered with the bottom of the door frame. It needs to be regulated depending on how wide the door will open.

The tongue should reach the box itself, and the remaining gap needs to be putty or sealed. In any situation it is unacceptable to attach skirting boards to the floor covering, they should only stick to the wall.

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When laying down grooved boards, do not forget about its special processing using a fire retardant, antiseptic impregnation or comprehensive protection (from fire and biological destructive factors at the same time).

In accordance with the instructions, the drug is sprayed or applied using a medium-sized paint brush.

Grinding

Even the best grooved board needs to be sanded. Slight distortions in height can be removed with emery, but if the defects are more pronounced, you will have to pick up a sander. After leveling the surface, the floor is immediately sanded, then putty and sanded again (this is the only way to achieve an optimal result). But you still need to walk with a primer varnish, grind it again, cover it with decorative varnish, after removing all dust and debris.

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Now you know exactly how to avoid problems when laying tongue-and-groove boards. Observing the simplest rules, you can do all the work yourself, having the most minimal skills in the construction industry. We wish you every success!

For information on how to install a grooved floorboard, see the next video.

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