Gone are the whitewashed ceilings with crooked corners and yellow stains on the walls.
The era of two-level plasterboard ceilings has come, which offer different solutions to interior tasks in an apartment. This is one of the most popular options due to its appearance and humane cost, as well as ease of installation.
The device of a two-level plasterboard ceiling allows you to apply a variety of design solutions and achieve the necessary interior effects due to its features. This gives a lot of advantages when working with drywall and often tilts the balance in its direction when choosing between drywall and stretch ceiling.
- perfect alignment of walls without large-scale construction work;
- freedom in self-expression - you can choose absolutely any pattern and shape of the ceiling;
- environmental friendliness;
- absence of dirt during installation;
- strength and functionality;
- thanks to this design, it is possible to successfully hide the ventilation, communication and lighting systems;
- speed of work - you can meet in one day;
- the ability to select lighting zones - you can organize point light in the necessary places for this;
- the ability to visually divide the room into different areas;
- can visually increase the height of the room;
- ease of assembly and installation that even a non-professional can handle.
Usually, double suspended ceiling is used in apartment renovation specifically for zoning rooms - this is a very convenient way to thematically separate one part of the room from another, especially if they have different purposes: for example, the dining room is separated from the kitchen area, and the living room is separated from the hallway. Such an unobtrusive separation allows you to do without the construction of additional partitions or installation of screens, which means it helps to save and use space efficiently.
However, such ceilings have their own significant drawbacks. Ordinary drywall is afraid of water, therefore it does not accept floods from neighbors above. The repair will consist of replacing sheets and repainting, or only repainting and new ceiling putty. In addition, visually increasing the space, in fact, he takes it away.
There are several ceiling options for the design of living rooms:
- Framework… Goes around the room around the perimeter. You can mount a backlight in it and place spot lighting. This leaves a lot of space in the center of the room, so you can add a chandelier that matches your style.
- Diagonal… Represents a diagonal line going from corner to corner. Whether straight or curved, it's a matter of taste. The base of such a ceiling is flat, the second level protrudes only above a part of the room. Divides the room into unequal zones, helps to beat the room and, in general, looks original.
- Zonal… Helps to highlight a specific area of the room, usually quite small. It is often used in bedrooms to separate the sleeping area from the work area (if the bedroom is combined with an office).
These are not all of the options available. If desired, the design can be complicated by adding more elements to it.
Unusual shapes, patterns and patterns are used that help to emphasize the individuality of the room and the taste of the owners:
- Figured… A structure in an unusual form is attached to the base in the form of a single-level ceiling: it can be a geometric figure, a plant element, an animalistic motif - at all the will of the owner. As a rule, such an element is placed in the center of the room, and in order to additionally beat and attract the attention of guests, it is framed with lighting. Colored LED bulbs can be used.
- Abstract… A variety of designs are used: from spiral to completely unprecedented shapes, which can be chaotically located on the ceiling. The composition is complemented by different lighting methods and colors. This ceiling solution can be considered the most unusual and unique.
- Soaring… Plasterboard elements are attached to the base on metal pins and fitting sleeves. So they look like they are hovering, suspended in the air. Successful light will only accentuate such an attractive effect.
There is an important point in the installation of a two-tiered ceiling: the lower level is always less than the first. Usually they make a zoned lighting system in it, adding more light where it is needed most according to the design of the room or apartment.
Materials and tools
For the installation of a two-level ceiling, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Their choice must be approached with all responsibility, because the quality of the final result depends on the quality of the materials, and therefore the durability and reliability of the ceiling.
First you need to familiarize yourself with the design of the coating. It includes:
- metal profile (UD guide and ceiling CD);
- fasteners (screws, screws);
- "Crabs" - connectors;
- straight or springy suspensions;
- metal dowel wedges;
- soundproofing materials (if such a goal is set);
- self-tapping screws;
- finishing materials: primer, putty and others;
Also, when choosing materials, it should be borne in mind that for rooms with different purposes, you need drywall with different properties… So, for the arrangement of rooms, a hallway or a kitchen, a simple construction drywall is suitable, and for bathrooms - moisture resistant.
Especially when choosing, you should pay attention to the size of the room. It is better to take a little more material (about 10-15% more than necessary), because this is the amount that will be used for trimming and waste.
When buying frames, special vigilance should be exercised when evaluating products for defects, kinks and bends.
For independent installation work, you must have the following tools:
- elbow or flight tire;
- construction knife;
- building level;
- spatulas, brushes and other accessories for painting and finishing works;
- plumb line;
- scissors for metal;
- gloves and goggles for protection.
Installation: step by step instructions
Collecting a backlit plasterboard ceiling with your own hands only seems like a daunting task. If you follow the technology correctly, then the whole process - from the preparatory stage and assembly of the frame to the final finishing work, will seem like just a new interesting experience and will not bring any inconveniences and problems.
Installation of plasterboard ceilings requires a project, which will display all profiles, their location and fastening. When developing it, it is better to seek help from specialists - they will be able to advise and give valuable advice on the entire process of installing ceilings. However, you can deal with the project yourself, if you take into account all the advice and take a responsible approach to the issue.
The project should be treated with the utmost care: the manufacture of such ceilings requires accuracy in measuring the dimensions and the ratio of all sides. If everything is done correctly, then the ceiling will be flat and reliable.
In addition, on the basis of the compiled project, calculations are made for the amount of material used, and here it is very undesirable to make mistakes.
Considering all the previous points, we get the following sequence of actions in the manufacture of two-level ceilings:
- surface preparation;
- installation of the first level frame;
- installation of the second level frame;
The ceiling area must be thoroughly cleaned and leveled, primed if necessary… A primer is needed to reduce the likelihood of dust getting on the surface of the plasterboard ceiling from the inside.
Cleaning the ceiling can even be done with a vacuum cleaner - this is the most affordable and simple, but at the same time an effective way to collect dust particles and dirt, so that the material is not "clogged" by this. Especially this action should be performed for residents of middle floors who have neighbors upstairs.
Universal drying oil can be used as a primer. It must be applied in several layers after the leveling plaster has hardened, otherwise the primer will be absorbed into the fresh composition and the desired result will not be achieved.
Before you start drawing up the frame, you need to make its diagram. In order to get all the data necessary for the markup, you need to do the following:
- measure the height of the room in the corners;
- find the "lowest" angle (with the smallest height).
It is this corner that will become the starting point of the marking, because this is the only way the whole structure will turn out to be even horizontally.
The next step is marking. It is necessary to mark on the walls a straight line for the profiles according to the drawings. We put points on the ceiling so that the suspension comes out even. Do not make a lot of unnecessary lines and points on the walls and ceiling - this will be confusing. It is very convenient to use a laser level.
It is important to:
- the perimeter was precisely aligned with the horizon;
- the lines on which the guides will "lie" were correct;
- the location of the suspension mounts was noted;
- the proportions were correctly and accurately transferred to the walls and ceiling.
However, it also happens that not only the angles are different in the room, but also the length of the walls and sides of the ceiling. Then the main task becomes horizontal adjustment. After that, you need to leave a clear pattern on the ceiling and align the rest of the structure along the edge. This will help to visually smooth out the curvature of the sides and give the ceiling the desired look.
The next step is to fasten the guide profile along the walls of the room in accordance with the markings. The fastening must go strictly along the line, otherwise the ceiling and the whole structure will be curved.
Holes for fasteners are drilled with self-tapping screws, the length of which must be sufficient to support the weight of the entire profile. The hangers are also attached to self-tapping screws, although it is not necessary: depending on the type of hangers, the fasteners themselves also change.
The next step is to assemble the frame. The transverse strips are attached to the longitudinal ones, fastened with "crabs", that is, with clamps - they provide an even perpendicular position of the profiles in relation to each other. After the installation is completed, the structure should be checked for stability, reliability and rigidity.
If required, the gypsum board can be cut with a hacksaw to the desired size, and only after that it can be fixed to the profile.
In order to give the desired pieces to the desired shape, the material must be moistened with water. Then the sheets become soft, pliable and can easily change their shape. To simplify the work, it is better to treat the surface with a metal needle roller - this way the material will be impregnated faster and it will be easier to bend it into the desired shape.
It should be borne in mind that when creating a two-level ceiling, drywall sheets are not attached to the first tier in those places where the second tier will be located. All that is needed is to leave an indent of 10-15 cm so that the frame is not noticeable.
Small difficulties begin with the installation of the second level frame. It takes more care and attention to avoid damaging the top level and carefully make the second one.
First of all, on the already finished and sheathed surface of the first level and marks are left on the walls for the construction of the second level… Marks are left only where the second level will directly pass - if it is located along the entire perimeter of the room, then marks are made on all sides.
The guide profile for the second level is fixed along the line on the walls and along the border of the lower level, from the inside. Pieces of the main profile are cut to a length of slightly less height from the profile to the mark located on the wall. On the pieces of the profile, a place is left for attaching the profile.
Pieces of the guide are attached to the guide profile. A guide profile is placed to a pre-provided place for fastening. Its sharp edge should look towards the wall.
In order to insert and fix the main profile into the guiding elements, it is cut into pieces of a suitable length. If the length of the pieces is more than half a meter, additional fastening in the form of suspensions is required.
After that, drywall sheets are fixed to the supporting profile of the frame. You need to start fastening from the corner, and at the same time the sheets should not be joined… Here you cannot do without self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Since the weight of one sheet of drywall is about 20-30 kg, you should think in advance about an assistant and a stable and strong ladder.
The second level of the ceiling is sheathed in the same way as the first. The seams are closed last, and then you can start finishing the ceiling.
but before completing the work, holes are cut in the drywall and cables and wires for communications are laid (communication lines, speakers, if their presence is provided for by the drawing and plan), a lighting system is installed. All wires must be corrugated - for protection against cuts during broaching and for fire safety purposes. It is better not to attach power cables to the frame profiles - better on the ceiling… It will be very difficult to do this later.
Holes for spotlights are made with a drill. The bulbs themselves will hold thanks to their own clips.
When all the elements are fixed, the cables are laid, and the lighting and other communications are ready, the stage begins for finishing the ceiling and bringing its appearance to the desired owner.
The decoration and design can be entrusted to specialists, but you can do it yourself. Here, as in the rest of the steps, there is nothing difficult: you just need to follow the instructions.
Firstly, you need to get rid of the joints. They need to be sealed with putty or a special mesh and leveled so that they are not visible., otherwise they will spoil the overall look, standing out under the paint. After all the joints are removed, the surface is processed with sandpaper, which allows you to make the transition boundaries invisible. Then another, final layer of putty is applied, diluted with water. It is good to carry out this procedure with a paint roller - this way the layer will be more even.
After the filler is dry, the surface is primed and covered with ceiling paint or other finishing materials. However, if the choice fell on paint, then the entire surface will have to be putty so that ugly stains are not visible. Also when finishing a two-tiered ceiling, it is worth remembering about corner and flat tapes to strengthen the seams… They are covered with a special perforated tape.
You can leave the ceiling just white, diversifying it with one light and LED lamps, or you can go further and pay attention to non-standard and unique color solutions:
- If you make the ceiling to match the walls or one or two tones lighter, then visually the room will become more spacious and bright.
- The dark two-level construction “steals” the height of the room a little, but at the same time evens out its proportions. A good option for high ceilings with curved walls.
- If a part of the plasterboard structure is finished with gloss, it will create the effect of additional light and visually expand the room and add air to the interior.
- If the windows are not facing the sunny side and the lack of light is a significant problem, you should pay attention to finishing the ceiling with bright, warm, summer colors. Peach, pale pink, orange and yellow shades will play the role of an artificial sun and it will always be cozy in the room.
- In rooms with windows facing south, cool shades will look great. A good option for lovers of blue, gray and greenish tones in the interior.
The final touch will be the installation of the plinth around the perimeter of the entire ceiling.
The design and variety of patterns on a suspended plasterboard ceiling depends only on the imagination and taste of the designer or owners.
For beginners, to simplify the installation task, it is better to plot all the lines of the drawing. It will be easier to work with them, because you can do without a drawing on paper and not be distracted by it every five minutes of the process.
Before starting the calculations, it is worth giving the finished project "for verification" to a professional. He will help you make the necessary changes or suggest the best solution.
Better to stop using incandescent bulbs - they can carbonize materials. Instead of it is worth using halogen lamps.
During painting, it is better to apply the first layer in one direction, and the second - perpendicular to the first… The paint applied in this way does not leave streaks and lays down in a dense, high-quality layer.
Wear protective gloves to avoid cutting your hands on the edges of the metal profiles. Self-tapping screws in drywall need to be screwed at a distance of 15 cm from each other - so the fasteners and fixation will be more reliable.
Jumpers must be strictly at the same level, in order to check this, you should measure their level with a tool. It is imperative to use a level when installing the structure… It will help to avoid the appearance of dangerous defects. If a slight bending of the drywall sheet is assumed, then this is easy to do without additional shenanigans. However, if the curvature is significant, it is better to prepare in advance for this process and find out the subtleties and details.
A two-tiered plasterboard ceiling helps to solve a lot of aesthetic and design problems, to correct room imperfections, such as the curvature of walls or ceilings, makes it possible to evenly distribute lighting throughout the room, making it of high quality and harmless to the eyes.
It is necessary to remember all the features of working with drywall and take into account its advantages and disadvantages.
Successful examples and options
Here are some ideas for finished duplex ceilings that can inspire new unique designs in your apartment or room.
Bright orange design with waves.
The classic version.
For geometry lovers.
A two-level ceiling with an abstract "curl".
For a two-level plasterboard ceiling with hidden lighting, see the following video.