Siding is the most common facade material and has several varieties. One of them is metal siding.
Features of the
Metal siding is a facade cladding material in the form of panels used to protect and decorate external walls. The basis of the material is alloy steel, and a special polymer coating provides weather resistance and an attractive appearance. An indispensable element of the material is an anti-corrosion layer, thanks to which the material does not rust and does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture.
Metal siding is characterized by weather resistance, it has high frost resistance, is not afraid of exposure to UV rays. Compared to the vinyl analogue, it is more durable and resistant to mechanical damage, has a longer service life (50–70 years).
The material is bio-resistant, non-combustible, environmentally friendly. It has a greater weight compared to vinyl, so in some cases, preliminary strengthening of the walls is required, as well as the search for assistants for installation.
Views
Currently, there are several types of metal siding on the construction market.
- "Ship board". The panels have a smooth wood surface similar to that of a ship deck. Decorative cracks, textured drawing can go on the wood, which makes the imitation more realistic.
- "Herringbone". Smooth siding with a slightly protruding and curved bottom. Visually it looks like a wave running onto the shore (flat surface and bend bent downwards). There can be from 1 to 3 such "waves", which affects the appearance and width of the material.
"Block house". In this case, the metal imitates a log, that is, its outer surface is convex, it is a hemispherical element. It can also have various shades, ranging from light (for example, "bleached wood") to dark, almost black ("cherry", "wenge")
Stone siding. It is a panel that imitates a natural stone surface. The most popular are such models as imitation for slate, pebbles, marble, granite
Brick siding. Such panels imitate brickwork. As a rule, the size of the "bricks" corresponds to the real one, so the surface looks as natural and effective as possible. The simulated brick can be smooth or textured, have a slate spraying, as well as a glossy finish. We should also mention panels with imitation of aged brick
Depending on the place of application, siding is divided into wall and basement. The latter is used in the area of the basement - the part of the house between the foundation and the facade. As you know, this zone is most susceptible to mechanical damage, freezing, moisture and chemical components, soil heaving.
All this determines the greater strength and thickness of the basement siding. Its height usually corresponds to the height of the plinth (typical dimensions 40-60 cm), externally the panels are rectangles. This form is most convenient for installation in this part of the house.
For cladding horizontal surfaces, a special type of metal siding is used - soffits. Such panels can be perforated (provide additional ventilation and moisture removal) or be smooth.
The use of insulated metal siding allows to simplify the process of erecting a warm facade. Such panels have a metal base, to which the required layer of insulation is fixed at the factory, on top of it there is an inner protective layer, the outer part is a polymer layer. The use of heat-insulating panels eliminates the need for additional installation of a layer of insulation and wind protection.
Depending on the characteristics of the pattern formed, horizontal and vertical siding are distinguished. The latter allows you to achieve the original appearance of a sheathed house, but it is rarely used due to a possible violation of the tightness between the joints and moisture entering the gaps. If vertical siding is used, then it is combined with horizontal.
Preparatory work
For cladding the facade with siding, you should prepare in advance the required number of panels, additional elements, as well as fasteners - usually these are galvanized self-tapping screws.
If it is necessary to fasten the elements through the panel (which is not recommended, since it leads to its cracking), galvanized self-tapping screws with a seal should be used. In this case, the rubber seal will prevent moisture from penetrating through the space around the self-tapping screw. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use nails, but only galvanized ones.
Finally, purchase metal siding paint in advance. It will provide anti-corrosion protection of the material in case of damage to the outer layer, and will also be needed to process the cut points of the panels.
Correct installation involves preliminary cutting of profiles and additional elements - this will speed up and simplify the fixing of the siding directly. The panels can be cut with scissors or a metal saw. But the use of a grinder, even with a special nozzle, should be abandoned, since its use often causes damage to the front layer and, as a result, increases the risk of corrosion of the panel.
In the process, it may be necessary to create additional holes, so it is logical to prepare a punch. A screwdriver is necessary for screwing in self-tapping screws. If nails are used, a hammer is indispensable. You can screw in self-tapping screws with a seal using a drill with a special nozzle.
You can align profiles and other elements using a level. In addition, you will need a square, plumb line and tape measure. To prevent scratching of the outer layer of the material, you can use a fabric or silicone tape, as well as a plastic or wooden square instead of a metal one.
The surface of the facade itself does not need much preparation. It will be enough to remove the old coating (you can not remove the "contact" coatings), close up large cracks and reinforce the crumbling parts. Since the installation is carried out on a subsystem, it is possible not to carefully compensate for height differences and minor defects.
At the stage of preparation for installation, you should mount the lathing on which the wall panels will be attached. Such a base is assembled from galvanized profiles, which are laid horizontally and vertically with the help of anchors.
There is also an option for a lighter, but less strong and durable timber frame. It is made of dry (moisture not more than 14%) wooden blocks measuring 50 by 50 mm. Before the lags are mounted in the subsystem, they are impregnated with fire retardants and antiseptics.
Installation
Installation of metal siding is not very complicated - it is quite possible to do it yourself. At the same time, you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder: the step-by-step instructions for the material usually clearly state the general principles of installing siding.
You should start from the starting bar. It is mounted at a height of 30–40 cm from the lowest point of the object in relation to the horizon. The location of the remaining elements depends on how flat the starting bar will be. In this regard, it is better to spend more time carefully aligning this element than trying to correct the distortion of the wall panels in the future.
Fastening of the starting strip is done in increments of 30–40 cm. Further, panels can be attached to these guides. However, professionals advise to first fix the components (additional elements) to design complex corners. At the same time, the distance between the self-tapping screws is reduced to 20–30 cm, which is a guarantee of high-quality fixation of the more complex configuration elements of the system.
After complex corners have been designed, you can immediately mount the profiles that frame the window and door openings. It is more convenient to do this also with the help of special additional elements: ebb strips (platband), slope strips. The first is selected taking into account the width of the opening, the second is fixed at the bottom of the opening.
After all the complex elements have been mounted, proceed to the installation of wall panels on flat sections of the facade. The installation step is 20–30 cm. Unlike vinyl siding, the joining of metal siding does not imply the preservation of gaps, since it has an insignificant coefficient of expansion. The butt joint is sometimes left only in order not to damage the front layer of the material during laying, as well as in the case of installation work at zero or negative temperatures.
The hardware should be inserted into the middle of the hole specially designed for it. Fastening should be carried out from top to bottom, from the center to the edges. Adjacent panels are joined by means of a locking mechanism. Connect them until they click. If necessary, the lower part of the panels can be slightly knocked out with a mallet until a characteristic click is heard.
It is recommended to check every 3rd row using a level. The permissible deviation should not exceed 2%. Installation of the last panel is carried out using a finishing strip. It is attached over the penultimate row of siding, after which the wall panel is cut to the desired size. On one side, it joins and snaps into place with the penultimate row, the other side is inserted into the bend of the finish bar.
The installation work is completed with the installation of spotlights on the area of cornices, overhangs, gables of the building.
In the conditions of the domestic climate, metal siding is combined with thermal insulation of the facade; the technology of a ventilated facade is used. In this case, a layer of insulation is laid on the surface of the walls between the frame elements. Its edges should fit snugly to the frame elements, otherwise the formation of "cold bridges" in these places cannot be avoided.
Usually, mineral wool insulation is used (it is better to give preference to more moisture-resistant stone wool) or polystyrene foam (here it is preferable to make a choice in favor of extruded polystyrene foam, which has higher performance properties compared to foam).
In the case of laying the insulation in 2 rows, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the first row do not coincide with the gaps of the second row. In other words, the second row should be laid with a slight offset to eliminate the risk of the formation of "cold bridges".
The next layer is waterproof and windproof. For it, a superdiffuse membrane or a conventional waterproofing film is used. It is sold in rolls and overlapped. The joints, as well as accidental damage, should be glued with tape.
The insulation is first fastened with temporary plastic dowels, and then, together with the waterproofing film, "breaks through" with a self-tapping plate-type screw. Enough 2-3 screws per sheet of insulation, one of which should be installed in the center.
The work is being completed by the installation of siding panels on the battens. At the same time, an air gap (3-5 cm) should be maintained between the insulation layer and the cladding. You will see how to sheathe a house with metal siding with your own hands in the next video.
Tips & Tricks
Professionals recommend following a few tips to get the most out of your cladding and simplify the installation process.
- When cladding a brick building, it is important to ensure that the dowels do not fall into the masonry joints. It is inadmissible to drill out hollow blocks and bricks.
- It is better to take soft insulation (mineral wool, for example) 0.5–1 cm wider than the lathing step. Excess material will easily bend, "fit" to the existing width.
- To fix the heat-insulating material, you should use fasteners, the length of which is 50 mm longer than the thickness of the insulation.
- For wooden walls, it is better to use mineral wool insulation, which has a better ability to remove water vapor. Under the expanded polystyrene plates, the wood begins to get wet and rot.
- The waterproofing film or diffuse membrane is laid directly on the insulation, keeping a ten-centimeter overlap. The film (membrane) can be attached with tape (to a metal frame) or brackets (to a wooden subsystem).