Do-it-yourself Sheathing Of A House With Siding With Insulation: How To Sheath With Mineral Wool Insulation For Siding, Installation Outside A Wooden House

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Do-it-yourself Sheathing Of A House With Siding With Insulation: How To Sheath With Mineral Wool Insulation For Siding, Installation Outside A Wooden House
Do-it-yourself Sheathing Of A House With Siding With Insulation: How To Sheath With Mineral Wool Insulation For Siding, Installation Outside A Wooden House

Video: Do-it-yourself Sheathing Of A House With Siding With Insulation: How To Sheath With Mineral Wool Insulation For Siding, Installation Outside A Wooden House

Video: Do-it-yourself Sheathing Of A House With Siding With Insulation: How To Sheath With Mineral Wool Insulation For Siding, Installation Outside A Wooden House
Video: How to Renovate Your Homes Exterior Part 2: Installing Insulation and Sheathing 2024, March
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Siding cladding has a protective and decorative value, and if a layer of insulation is laid under the panels, it will be possible to increase the thermal efficiency of the house. True, a positive result is possible only with the correct selection of materials, correct calculation of their quantity and thickness, and adherence to the installation technology.

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Features of the

House cladding with siding allows you to solve several problems at once:

  • protect the facade of the building from the negative effects of the environment, and therefore extend its integrity and durability;
  • to increase the thermal efficiency of the building due to the installation of siding according to the principle of ventilated technology, as well as through the thermal insulation of the facade;
  • give the building an aesthetic appeal, unify or, on the contrary, distinguish it from others.

Siding is a panel that is "dry" fastened, that is, they do not require the use of concrete mixtures, but are attached to dowels or nailed.

This makes it possible to significantly reduce the labor intensity and the size of the construction estimate.

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Fastening of panels is usually done on a frame, which is stuffed over the facade. Thanks to this, you can not achieve a perfectly smooth surface of the walls, close your eyes to minor defects - they will not be noticeable under the crate. Moreover, by adjusting the thickness of the lathing and its indentation from the wall, it is possible to put insulation of the required thickness between the facade and the siding.

As you know, external insulation is more effective than internal insulation, it does not take away the useful area of the room. By installing the heat insulator together with the siding fastening, it is possible to make this process even more convenient, efficient and less costly. It is important that all the work can be done with your own hands, without being a professional builder.

By itself, the ventilated cladding technology provides some thermal efficiency, since there is an air gap between the siding and the facade, which prevents heat loss. In the conditions of the Russian climate, one 3-5 cm thick thermal "pillow" is, of course, indispensable; installation of insulation material is necessary.

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However, it is the siding cladding with simultaneous insulation of the facade, produced using ventilated technology, that is currently considered the most rational - it is possible to reduce the heat loss coefficient of the building walls to optimal indicators. The process is quite simple, all materials are affordable.

In addition to thermal insulation, the air gap acts as an additional way of facade ventilation, allowing the insulation not to absorb moisture, which, in turn, prevents it from getting wet.

Siding panels are lightweight and therefore do not require (in most cases) pre-strengthening. They are suitable for all types of surfaces and most types of soil.

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Choice of materials

Having decided to insulate the facade with its simultaneous cladding with siding, it is necessary to select the material required for the work. It can be roughly divided into several groups.

Sheathing material

The lathing is a metal or wooden frame fixed to the façade to which the siding panels are attached. Metal has greater bearing capacity and durability. In some cases, a wooden analogue has a lower cost, but it is suitable for small wooden and frame houses, and also has a shorter service life.

Regardless of the type of lathing chosen, its elements need preliminary preparation. Metal profiles are galvanized or otherwise protected against corrosion. Wooden frame logs must be thoroughly dried (permissible humidity - no more than 14%) and impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

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Siding type

Vinyl is a polyvinyl chloride panel that is lightweight and affordable. They are weatherproof, shockproof, durable. However, with significant mechanical damage, such panels can deform, crack or break. They have a sufficiently noticeable coefficient of expansion depending on temperature, which should be taken into account during installation.

There is a variety of acrylic vinyl panels. These products contain a certain amount of acrylic, which makes them more durable, stabilizes the shade, and slightly improves performance.

At the heart of metal siding is a sheet of metal that has anti-corrosion protection. This allows us to neutralize the main disadvantage of metal siding - its susceptibility to corrosion, which, in turn, reduces the quality and durability of the material.

Such siding is much stronger than vinyl, it is not damaged by strong impacts.

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Despite the fact that the metal counterpart is also quite lightweight, in some cases reinforcement of a weakened foundation is required. The greater weight of the material compared to vinyl panels makes installation heavier.

Metal siding is also resistant to the negative effects of the environment, and in addition, it is non-flammable, demonstrates a longer service life.

The basis of fiber cement panels is a material based on Portland cements or other cements with improved technical characteristics and recycled cellulose. Due to the peculiarities of the composition and production technology, a very strong and durable siding is obtained, which, however, has an impressive weight. This allows it to be used only for buildings that have a solid foundation and are installed on solid soils.

Siding can differ not only in the material of manufacture, but also in design. Colored panels are distinguished (they can have a bright or pastel color, be matte or glossy), as well as imitate wooden, stone and brick surfaces.

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Insulation

For outer sheathing, you should choose a heater that has a minimum heat loss coefficient. In addition, it is important that it is resistant to moisture (otherwise a powerful waterproofing system and additional ventilation will be required).

It is recommended to choose fire-safe insulation or, if possible, combine non-combustible panels with low-combustible insulation, and vice versa. Attention should also be paid to the ability of the material to release toxic substances during combustion.

Of course, its biostability, durability, ease of installation are important. As practice shows, the most simple from the point of installation are materials in sheets, mats, as well as sprayed materials (however, they require the involvement of professionals and the use of special equipment).

To date, the following types of insulation are most common:

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Expanded polystyrene

Under this group lies the well-known foam and its improved version - extruded polystyrene foam. The thermal efficiency of the sheets is associated with the peculiarities of their structure - they consist of air chambers, however, in the extruded version, these chambers are additionally isolated from each other. Thanks to this, it is possible to provide higher technical characteristics of the material. It is distinguished by low heat loss (0.4 W / (m · ° C)), demonstrates maximum moisture resistance. Expanded polystyrene is a combustible material and even the addition of fire retardants to the extruded version cannot significantly change the situation.

It is possible to achieve even higher performance characteristics by insulating the walls with penoplex. It is a kind of polystyrene foam insulation. The best option for foam blocks and aerated concrete, brickwork.

Insulation is produced in the form of sheets with various thicknesses and densities. The sheets are easy to cut with an ordinary construction knife, they are well fixed to the surface due to the smooth surface.

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Mineral wool

A material representing fine fibers arranged in a chaotic manner. Air cavities remain between the fibers, which provide the thermal insulation effect. Heat loss indicators are similar to the coefficient of expanded polystyrene.

It is produced in 3 varieties, but only 2 are suitable for use in construction - glass wool and stone wool

The first is made of broken glass and quartz sand, is plastic (optimal for warming rounded or other surfaces of complex shapes), the combustion temperature is 500 degrees. The disadvantage is low moisture resistance, a tendency to shrinkage (due to which the layer of insulation becomes thinner over time, which negatively affects its thermal efficiency), the need to work in a respirator, protective suit and glasses (the thinnest fibers of glass wool prick, easily penetrate the skin).

Stone wool is made from molten rocks, therefore it is an environmentally friendly and non-combustible material. It is less elastic (does not shrink), is more moisture resistant (but not able to repel moisture). Basalt (another name) cotton wool does not penetrate the skin and does not prick, but also breaks down into tiny particles that are hazardous to the respiratory tract during operation. In this regard, it is better to work with a respirator.

Mineral wool is produced in rolls and sheets, and when it comes to high-density material - in plates. The most convenient from the point of view of installation is insulation with a minelite and sheet analogs.

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Polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam allows you to quickly organize a thin layer of insulation, which will be enough for high-quality thermal insulation. Its heat loss coefficient is 0.3 W / (m · ° C), it is moisture-resistant, non-combustible, and environmentally friendly.

The advantage of polyurethane foam is the absence of seams and gaps in the insulation layer, which prevents heat leakage.

Spraying requires special equipment, so you have to invite specialists, which increases costs.

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Penoflex

A modern insulation based on foamed polyethylene, a feature of which is the presence of a metallized layer on one of the sides. By itself, polyethylene has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but the main thermal efficiency is achieved due to the reflective ability of the foil layer - it draws back up to 97% of the thermal energy inside the room.

This allows the material to be used for both external and internal insulation, especially since it has a small (up to 0.5 cm) thickness.

The use of penoflex makes it possible to refuse from additional hydro- and vapor-permeable layers. The insulation also has good sound absorption performance and is easy to install. Available in rolls of various widths.

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Materials for hydro-wind protection, vapor-permeable materials

This category includes, first of all, a moisture-proof film that is laid on top of the insulation and protects it from moisture penetration, blowing by the wind. A more modern variation of this film is a diffuse membrane - it has the ability to remove moisture vapor, but does not allow droplets of liquid to pass through. In other words, it simultaneously provides vapor barrier and moisture protection.

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Application area

It is not enough to know what materials are used for insulation and facade cladding, it is important to combine them correctly. First of all, when choosing, one should take into account the material of the walls and the type of house, its bearing capacity.

Pile and columnar houses are usually built on unstable soils., therefore, heavy fiber cement, and sometimes metal siding, can hardly be used for cladding. The most acceptable option is vinyl or metal (not all houses) panels.

For cladding a brick house on stable ground with sufficient bearing capacity, all types of finishes can be used, for cinder block it is better to abandon fiber cement siding and increase the thickness of the insulation.

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To design a country house that provides only seasonal residence, it makes no sense to spend money on more expensive metal siding, vinyl will be quite enough.

For houses in the construction of which wood is used, that is, lumber, panel board, frame, it is undesirable to use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam insulation. The wall under such heat insulators begins to wet and rot, which is due to their low vapor permeability. The optimal choice for a log house or a house made of wood is mineral wool, always with a waterproofing system.

It is important to consider which part of the outer wall is revetted. So, for the basement, which is more susceptible to mechanical damage and negative atmospheric influences, thicker and stronger basement panels should be selected, for the rest of the facade - wall panels.

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How to insulate?

It is important to achieve the correct combination of the type of siding and insulation. In general, there are no strict restrictions on certain combinations. However, from the point of view of fire safety, it is better to combine combustible materials with non-combustible materials, which will prevent the rapid spread of flame along the ventilated facade in the event of a fire.

For example, low-flammability vinyl siding is recommended to be combined with polyurethane foam or mineral wool. Metal siding is a more expensive and fire-resistant material, therefore, when choosing an insulation, you can save a little and choose a polystyrene foam insulation.

Fiber cement slabs themselves have a low heat loss coefficient, therefore, in some cases (for example, when sheathing a summer house), they can be used without an additional layer of thermal insulation.

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Scheme

After the materials used have been determined, you should draw up a diagram of the house outside. This is necessary to calculate the number of siding panels, insulation, waterproofing film. In this case, calculations should be made taking into account the wooden or metal frame, since after its installation, the width of each of the walls will increase by 3-7 cm.

First of all, the thickness of the insulating layer should be calculated. To do this, it is necessary to find out what kind of resistance to heat loss should the external wall have in a particular region, as well as to clarify the degree of resistance to heat loss of the wall material and other facing materials. These indicators are constant, they can be found in SNiPs, learn from the official developers of a particular region.

Further, from the value of the required resistance to heat loss, the coefficient of resistance to heat loss of the wall, cladding, etc. should be subtracted. The remaining value is the coefficient of resistance to heat loss for the heat insulator. It remains to choose the material corresponding to the density and thickness.

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You can do it easier and use an online calculator, which is usually available on the official websites of manufacturers of heaters or stores that sell them.

It is enough to enter the required data for the program to automatically calculate the required thickness of the material, depending on whether you are insulating the facade with mineral wool or other material.

The calculation of the number of siding panels is based on the size of the house. It is necessary to determine the area of the house (multiply the height and width of each of the walls and summarize the result), and then subtract from it the area of the areas that will not be sheathed with siding (window and door openings, balconies, etc.). Having learned this coefficient, you can calculate the number of panels, taking into account the width and height of one element.

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As a result of such calculations, a number will be obtained indicating the total number of panels that are required for finishing. It remains to divide it by the amount of siding in the package in order to find out the required number of the latter.

Usually, the material is purchased with a small margin, which is 7-10% for houses of simple construction and 10-15% for buildings with complex architectural elements, unusual geometry.

It is important to make external insulation without gaps, which tend to occur at the joints of the insulation and the elements of the sheathing. You can purchase polyurethane foam to fill them.

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Preparatory work

Unlike contact finishing (painting, plastering), siding cladding does not require a large amount of work. First of all, the elements of communications - wiring, pipes, should be removed from the surface of the walls.

Large cracks and gaps should be putty, the collapsed parts of the facade should be reinforced. If it is supposed to stick sheets of expanded polystyrene on a painted facade, the paint should be beaten off. The solvents included in its composition destroy expanded polystyrene. The same applies to oil, gasoline stains - they should be eliminated.

A small (up to 2 cm) difference in the height of the facade can not be corrected - it will be hidden by the lathing system. Wood surfaces should be coated with two coats of deep penetration primer.

The next stage of the preparatory work is the installation of the subsystem. First, large panels are installed along the perimeter of the facade, then vertical panels are laid with a step corresponding to the width of the siding. After that, the verticals are connected by shorter horizontal elements.

The lathing is attached to brackets. Its height is determined by the thickness of the insulation, taking into account the fact that an air gap of 3-5 cm should remain between the layer of insulation and siding.

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Installation

The step-by-step instructions for finishing siding are quite simple:

  1. corner elements are attached to the mounted frame system;
  2. on the starting bar installed at a height of 15 cm from the ground, the first panel is attached, which goes under the corner element, engaging with it (thus, you must always start from the corners);
  3. in the same way, the rest of the panels of the first row are laid out, then you can proceed to the installation of the second row, which engages with the previous one with grooves;
  4. the last row is wound over the edge of the pre-installed finishing strip.

The cladding together with the insulation provides for the preliminary laying of the insulation. Its width should be similar to the step of the lathing in order to exclude the appearance of "cold bridges" at the points of junction of the insulation and the frame profile. Insulation is usually glued to the surface or fixed with temporary plastic dowels. A windproof film or membrane is laid on top of the insulation. Its strips are glued with an overlap, the joints are glued with tape.

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If you decide to finish the walls with foam foam, then it is laid with a metallized surface inside, fixed with dowels or small nails. A layer of waterproofing and windproofing is not required.

After the waterproofing layer is glued, it is important to additionally strengthen the insulation on the wall. This can be done with the help of umbrella-type dowels, which simultaneously "pick up" both the film and the insulation. For 1 m2 of insulation, 3-4 fasteners are enough, one of which should be in the middle.

After this process is completed, the frame should be sheathed with siding, the technology is described above.

For finishing horizontal surfaces and facing the pediment, a special type of siding is usually used - soffits. They are designed for installation on horizontal surfaces and for filing overhangs.

For finishing the openings, you should also use special elements - a near-window profile or platbands.

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Testimonials

As already mentioned, facade cladding with insulated siding is one of the most common methods of decorating and insulating exterior walls. This technology has many positive reviews.

Homeowners note the effectiveness of this method - at the end of the work, the house becomes noticeably warmer, and the cost of heating it decreases.

It is important that the work can be done by hand, although a large number of users still recommend entrusting the calculations of the required amount of insulation and its thickness, siding to professionals.

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Sometimes you can hear that the insulation got wet when using this system. This should not be considered a disadvantage of the applied sheathing method, the point here is a violation of the technology: either high-quality vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulation is not provided, or an airtight moisture-proof layer over the insulation is not provided.

It is important to choose the right insulation depending on the type of surfaces. It is considered optimal if the vapor barrier indicators are close to those of the material itself.

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Tips & Tricks

If it is necessary to lay a thick thermal insulation layer, experts recommend using 2 layers of thinner insulation. The next layer should be laid with an offset so that the joints between the slabs of the first layer do not coincide with the gaps between the material of the second layer.

Screw in self-tapping screws or hammer in nails in the perforations provided for this, strictly in the center of the holes. Fasteners must be purchased galvanized.

If necessary, make a through hole in the siding for a self-tapping screw, it should be pre-drilled, and only then insert the fasteners. Preference should be given to dowels with a seal, the presence of which will prevent moisture from entering through the hole into the system.

When installing vinyl panels, remember that they tend to change their linear dimensions depending on the air temperature. Preservation of a gap of 3-10 mm between the panels allows to avoid deformation and damage of the material.

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Installation tips are in the next video.

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