The need to install a new toilet appears during a major overhaul or as a result of a breakdown in plumbing. Replacing sanitary equipment with your own hands makes it possible to save a lot of money, and understanding the technological process will allow you to choose the right way to install it correctly. In such a situation, the assistance of specialists is not needed.
Training
Before you start replacing the toilet yourself, you need to draw up a plan for its future location in the bathroom. At the same time, it is necessary to determine the choice of the model of the sanitary-technical device.
Type selection
Particular attention should be paid to the selection and purchase of a new toilet. Only then, in accordance with your choice, the tools and materials for replacement will be completed. The following constructions exist:
- floor;
- suspended.
Floor-standing options are the most popular, their range is quite extensive. Replacing the old floor sanitary structure with a new one is the most common case. There are floor models such as "compact", "monoblock", scattered cistern and toilet, as well as with a hidden drain system.
Monoblock is the product of the injection molding method for the production of sanitary ware, which combines both a tank and a toilet. Design "Compact" - this is when the toilet and cistern go together and are combined during installation.
This is a particularly demanded product in the domestic market of sanitary products.
Retro productThis is when the tank is mounted under the ceiling and connected to the bowl by means of a pipe, and to flush it, you need to "pull the rope". Such a product comes across less and less. It looks great in a suitable interior style.
The modern version is a hidden drainage system. To rotate an ordinary toilet with this model, it will be necessary to build a false wall, behind which a tank with a frame system (installation) will be hidden. From the outside, such modifications look pretty neat, there is only a flush button on the wall, and all communication lines are hidden.
Hanging toilet bowls. These devices are not placed on the floor, they are hung on specialized anchors on the wall. Thus, an unoccupied space is formed under the bowl of the appliance, which can be used effectively.
And in terms of hygiene, such a structure is a winner. It is easy and simple to clean the floor under the hanging bowl, and dirt usually accumulates around the floor structure.
There is one more subtlety that must be taken into account when rotating the toilet - direction of the drain hole (outlet, outlet).
There are 3 types:
- oblique bend (at an angle);
- straight drain hole;
- vertical drain.
A popular option is longitudinal direct drainage. The toilet is connected to the sewerage pipeline on the same line. Bending at an angle was practiced in the construction of residential multi-storey buildings in the USSR, but can be found in our time. But designs with a vertical release are usually installed in China and the USA. Practicality lies in the fact that the bowl can be installed at any point, the lines of communications are drawn in the bowels of the interfloor overlap. In our country, this is feasible in individual houses.
Tools and materials
Replacing the sanitary equipment in an apartment with your own hands is a feasible task for a home craftsman. To implement it without much effort and financial resources, at the same time doing the job at the proper level, perhaps following simple instructions. You only need to master certain simple skills. Of course, in order to cope with such a task, you will need to acquire some tools necessary for dismantling and further installation of plumbing. For an event to replace a sanitary fixture, you will need the following:
- hammer drill or hammer drill with high-quality concrete drills from Pobedit;
- set of open-end wrenches for assembling valves and connecting flexible hoses for water;
- gas and adjustable wrenches;
- hammer;
- flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers;
- a can of silicone-based sealant;
- cement glue.
Once the proper sanitary fittings have been purchased, the problem of selecting the water pipes to connect the water to the waste tank needs to be resolved.
In the past, only railway lines of communication were used for this purpose. Nowadays, products made of metal-plastic or polypropylene are mainly practiced. They are not as solid as metal prototypes, however, the installation procedure is much easier. And this distinguishes them from the old type systems - for the assembly work of a plumbing system made of progressive materials, you will not need any special knowledge or specific tools.
Once upon a time, the restoration of communications required the use of welding, cutting steel manually (with a hacksaw), and threading. As a result, the work was difficult, long and exhausting. What can not be said about metal-plastic pipes - they are mounted by means of standard fittings, and even a beginner with minimal experience and skills can handle this mission.
How to remove an old toilet?
Before installing a new plumbing device, you need to get rid of the old one. If we are talking about dismantling the toilet, which was installed relatively not so long ago, then all measures are carried out quite easily - cold water is closed, the device is disconnected from the sewerage and water supply, the bolts that secure it to the floor are unscrewed. Done - now the toilet can be sent to the trash heap.
However, there is often a need to change the plumbing equipment that was installed when the house was built 20, 30 or more years ago. With this option, the dismantling procedure is complicated, since, in all likelihood, the toilet bowl is fixed on the floor by means of a cement solution - you will probably not be able to remove it without breaking it. In addition, by means of cementing, they often sealed the joint between the drain neck and the tee for the sewer pipes.
Let's present an event for dismantling an old sanitary device in the form of a step-by-step practical guide
Turn off the water supply to the tank. To do this, close the suitable valve in front of the hose. If there is no tap, completely close the cold water supply to the dwelling. Drain the remaining liquid from the tank into the toilet.
Remove the lid from the tank and the seat from the rim. Disconnect the elastic hose from the water supply system and then from the toilet.
Attention! The dismantling procedure described above, like most others, is often the result of the ingress of a considerable amount of liquid. Therefore, prepare the rags in advance.
Dismantle the tank from the toilet, so as not to interfere, take it out of the toilet. Use a hammer to strike very hard on the toilet flush, which is inserted into the cast iron sewer tee. You should not hit the tee - it tends to split. Beat until the drain neck is completely split off the tee.
Following this, by hitting the grout, begin to separate the toilet from the floor. Try rocking the product on the floor. If the device stubbornly stands still and does not give in - do not stop striking … The use of an impact drill or perforator will help to significantly speed up the procedure.
Having removed the product, try to gently pour the water that remained in the siphon (or a water seal - it serves to prevent the "aromas" of sewage contents from entering the dwelling from the toilet bowl or onto a rag).
After removing the toilet bowl, remove debris and debris from the floor.
Using a chisel or chisel, clean the insides of the drainage system from fragments of concrete or any other putty. At the same time, make sure that no large debris gets inside. Be careful not to forget that you are working with a fragile cast iron pipe.
Clean the toilet - free it from construction waste, elements of an old toilet bowl and water that got on the floor during work.
If you intend to replace the floor covering - do this before installing a new device.
Self-installation
When the old toilet has been safely removed, it is time to install the new device. The installation procedure differs depending on the type of configuration selected. The installation of a floor-mounted device and a hinged version with a hidden cistern is carried out in different ways.
To cope with this issue on your own, our step-by-step description of the installation process will give you the opportunity.
Installation of a toilet bowl "compact"
In order to change the old device on your own for a compact toilet of a floor-standing design, follow our advice.
- Decide on the location of the new plumbing device. Set the bowl in the restroom without securing it, try to sit on it, consider different variations.
- If you are specifically oriented with the location, draw out the base with a felt-tip pen … Mark the fixing points with a felt-tip pen.
- Move the device to the side … All the necessary marks have been preserved on the floor. Take an electric drill and drill bit 12 and punch holes in the tile. It is safer to drill concrete with a punch with a drill No.12, install the dowels in the holes.
- Take a cuff or corrugation that will connect the outlet to the sewer … Install it after lubricating the joint with a sealing compound (for example, silicone).
- Install a new toilet with a cuff or corrugation in the desired position … Insert the bolts into the mounting ears and screw them in with an adjustable wrench. Do not overdo it, so as not to overdo it and not to break the integrity of the sanitary ware.
- Connect the toilet to the sewer system. Smear all joints with silicone.
- Place the cistern on the toilet. Tie the components together with the bolts.
- You can connect the device to the water supply.
Inspect all joints and detachable connections for leaks. If there are no problems, you can start using the plumbing device.
Installation of a toilet bowl in "Khrushchev"
Installation of a plumbing device in the "Khrushchev" will be carried out in the following way. We mount a plastic tee into the drainage of the sewer riser. This is quite easy to accomplish, if only we carefully cleaned the glass (extreme part) of the bend. If the tee comes in excessively tightly, then we coat it with some kind of detergent. Place the toilet on the floor in the required position.
We connect it by means of corners or a corrugated flexible hose to the outlet of the riser. We are experiencing how, with such a location, it will fit into space. Does the door open inward, is there enough space for the one who sits on the "pot"? We outline the place of the device with a felt-tip pen.
We also mark the fixing points of the toilet bowl to the floor, remove the device.
At the points that we have outlined for fixing, we drill holes for the dowels for the toilet bowl. They usually range from 10 to 12 millimeters. If it turns out that your toolbox does not have a 12 mm drill, and the dowel is specifically 12 mm, then change the 12 mm dowel to 10 mm and work with a 10 mm drill. A bolt designed for a 12 mm dowel will also fit into a dowel of a slightly smaller diameter without any problems. Place the dowels in the holes and engage in connecting the toilet to the riser.
See if the holes in the floor line up with the mounting holes of the plumbing fixture, and tilt the fixture to one edge.… Apply silicone sealant inside the previously marked circuit and replace the toilet. The sealant will securely secure the toilet, and if any grains of sand get in, the device will not creak. Next, tighten the installed device using the toilet bolts. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts. Cover the bolts with decorative plugs.
Connecting the cistern
Now you can fix the drain tank to the toilet. It is not necessary to assemble the tank itself, it has already been assembled at the enterprise. In the old flush cisterns, which were sold in a disassembled form, there was an assembly manual. Moreover, in each modification, the assembly method is different. We put the tank on the toilet, not forgetting, along with this, to put the rubber bands (gaskets) included in the kit.
We begin to tighten the clamping bolts one at a time. First of all, we tighten one to such a state that the tank leads a little. After that, we press on the top of the tank with our hand, thereby leveling it, tighten the 2nd fastening bolt. It is necessary to connect the tank to the water supply system with a high-quality hose. It is not recommended to use a rubber hose with a metal braid … The coating can corrode and the hose, having lost its sheathing, bursts at this point. Moreover, this happens, as a rule, when no one is at home. Back home, you have a chance to watch the "water show" and, of course, the angry neighbors living below you.
Therefore, it is safer to use metal-plastic or a hose in a metal corrugation.
After connecting the plumbing device to the plumbing system, turn on the tap and wait until the drain tank is full. Experiencing a drain. If water seeps out in some place, then dismantle the corrugated hose or corners, wipe dry, apply silicone and reinstall. Silicone sealant eliminates leakage.
Installation of a toilet bowl in "Khrushchev" is not the easiest thing. The above method of installing a toilet bowl may differ slightly from other methods, but this does not mean that one or another method is incorrect or ineffective. There are simply many ways to solve a problem, and each is optimal in its own way.
Common mistakes
Changing the toilet in the restroom with your own hands and not making mistakes is not easy, especially when the skills of working with plumbing fixtures are not enough. We have compiled a list of the most common plumbing mistakes that beginners make in this business. This checklist will help you avoid unwanted surprises as you work.
- So that there is no stagnation of water in the collection system, it is imperative to withstand the slope. The SNiP says about a slope of 3-5% in the direction of the riser. If you want to not only change the toilet, but also move it to another place, remember this requirement. If you move the bowl more than a meter from the riser, you need to raise it 3-5 centimeters. In this order for every 100 centimeters. In this case, complications with drains will not appear.
- Some people rush to replace the toilet at the initial stage of the toilet renovation. If possible, it is best not to do this. Since the sanitary ware made of earthenware is extremely fragile, and during subsequent repair work in the restroom, it is very likely to render it unusable. Change the plumbing at the end of the process.
- If your bathroom has a bidet, the wall-mounted toilet should be in line with its top edge.… Thus, the plumbing equipment looks consistent, it is more comfortable to use.
- Replacing sewer pipes must certainly take place simultaneously with the installation of revisions.
The access to the revision hatches in the walls must be constantly free, especially since there are aesthetic doors in the trade for such tasks.
For information on how to replace the toilet, see the next video.