The toilet bowl and its internal devices are damaged for various reasons. The list of common malfunctions includes loud noise during the operation of shut-off valves, valves are faulty, gaskets do not hold the water pressure, which causes leaks, water does not flow into the tank. Most problems are easy to identify and fix. The toilet bowl and the cistern mechanism are often used, which negatively affects the technical condition of the shut-off valves, which must be checked periodically.
The uninterrupted, reliable operation of any mechanism depends on many factors, including the assembly quality of the assembly and the strength of the parts used. Replacement or repair of valves you need to approach responsibly, carefully study the operation of the device, understand the principle of its operation, and then proceed to inspection and repair. Most apartment owners do just that, realizing that there is a chance to flood their neighbors.
Often, breakdowns occur due to long-term operation of the device, poor quality tap water. Malfunctions related to shut-off valves are, in one way or another, associated with leaks. In rare cases, individual parts break, which directly affect the normal functioning of the assembly.
Common malfunctions include
- Water does not drain into the toilet. If the drain tank is full, and the release mechanism has a free stroke, then there is a problem with the shut-off valves. If water does not flow at all, then this is most likely due to a clogged filter located in the inlet of the tank.
- Loud noise during filling with water. Regardless of the service life and the type of tank, the indicated malfunction is far from uncommon. It occurs due to a flown off tube. Basically, such problems are noted in structural elements, where the method of lateral water supply is implemented.
- Characteristic leaks in the toilet. Small rivulets are often observed when the valves are poorly adjusted and water flows through the process hole in the pipe. A worn gasket may also be the cause. Otherwise, the rubber seal located on the drain fitting is loose.
Most of the faults are eliminated by oneself, without calling a plumber. It is important to note that a number of parts in the valves break easily, so the work should be done carefully.
How to fix a toilet bowl?
The toilet separately, in comparison with the cistern, has a very commonplace device. Structurally, it is actually no different from the old models that were used by previous generations. The exception, perhaps, is the material and design of the toilet bowls. Nowadays, they are made not only from ceramics, but also from marble or other more expensive materials.
If the bowl has cracked, then it will be easy to glue it (with a small crack) without the participation of experienced plumbers. Cracks are usually caused by factory defects or mechanical shock loads. This problem cannot be ignored, since a violation of the tightness of the bowl will lead to water leaks.
Sanitary ware used in the production of common models of modern sinks, bidets, toilet bowls, cisterns is a very fragile material. It is enough to list three main reasons for a possible leakage of the toilet bowl.
- Falling heavy metal objects. It is not uncommon for men to equip tool cabinets directly above the cistern and toilet. And here any negligence, when the iron key or pliers slip out of the hands, can lead to the formation of a crack or a characteristic chip.
- Temperature drops - sanitary ware does not tolerate them well. They negatively affect the internal stress of the material, causing its uneven expansion. Therefore, pouring hot water into the toilet bowl is highly undesirable.
- Severe tightening of nuts. If, during installation, a plumber, using brute physical force, unevenly tightens the bolts or installs the toilet at an angle, this often leads to cracks. Many of them do not appear immediately, but after a long time.
In some cases, it is more expedient to replace the bowl than to repair it. Many users regard the concept of toilet bowl repair as a forced but temporary measure because the glued equipment loses its performance. However, the degree of the final decision is still influenced by the specifics of the damage, so each individual case should be considered on an individual basis.
Before proceeding with the repair of the bowl, the chip must be cleaned with sandpaper and the fines removed with gasoline or acetone. The last step in the preparatory work is to remove moisture from the repaired plane with a hairdryer. At the second stage, it is necessary to glue the surface or glue a broken piece of sanitary ware.
This can be done by using glue, for example, BF 2, MC-1 or another with water-repellent properties.
Apply glue in a thin layer and glue the damaged surface. Wait a certain amount of time and then press down firmly on the two pieces of the cracked plane. Detailed instructions can be found on the product packaging. The last step is to achieve the aesthetics of the toilet in place of the adhesive. Dry glue protruding from the crack must be removed with a special grout, often used after laying the tiles.
If the malfunction of the toilet is associated with a leak, from the side of the drain into the sewer system, the reason may lie in the deterioration of the rubber, sealing cuff. To change it you need:
- disconnect the corrugated pipe;
- remove the worn out gasket;
- clean the edges of the mating surfaces of the pipe and toilet;
- install a new cuff;
- connect the hose.
To ensure the tightness of the docking stations, you need to use a special paste-like composition - a sealant or similar. If the problem is blockages, you can try using a plunger familiar to many or chemicals, for example. Bio Favorite or Mole
Repair of the cistern
Anyone can repair the toilet bowl or cistern with their own hands, without the participation of plumbers. Naturally, you need to know that water enters the cistern from the hose of the plumbing system and only then, thanks to the functionality of the shut-off valves, is retained and drained into the toilet.
The fittings used in the flush cisterns are different and, accordingly, the necessary device must be chosen relative to the design features of the sanitary ware. The differences lie primarily in the drainage system. Some models are designed for installation in cisterns, where the characteristic key is located on the side. Others are used for vertical descent of the whirlpool, using a button. Still others are adapted for installation in cisterns, when the water goes down by lifting up a small handle.
In order not to be mistaken with the choice, you need to know the model of the cistern or, in extreme cases, the manufacturer, and with this data go to the store. In addition to the necessary knowledge, for the installation of new fittings, you will need tools:
- a set of open-end wrenches or an adjustable wrench;
- thread sealant;
- insulating tape.
In addition to the above, it is advisable to prepare rags in order to remove rust and mucus from the side of the tank, as well as from the bottom.
It makes sense to tell you how to install a new armature to replace the damaged one. A relatively simple procedure is usually carried out if it is not possible to repair it.… For example, it does not hold a valve with a bottom inlet or the gasket on the locking device is worn out. Also, plastic elements that are broken are not repairable. In most cases, it is easier to replace an uncomplicated unit than to look for the causes of malfunctions, to carry out repairs - to glue, patch up a hole, or try to restore operability in another way.
If the flush cistern is intact, without damage and only the internal mechanism needs to be changed, you should first perform simple steps:
- turn on the valve in the plumbing system;
- drain the collected water;
- unscrew the drain nut;
- remove the tank lid;
- lower both hands into the container and feel the body;
- with a confident movement, counterclockwise, turn the plastic flask;
- get out the broken fittings.
The final step is to mount the new system into the footprint. After installation, you need to turn the device clockwise with a characteristic force, until it stops.
The cover and the release button are placed last. First you need to check the working functions and only then complete the assembly. Usually it is not necessary to specially adjust the internals of the device. But if fine tuning is required, then special manipulations are performed by means of the regulating elements of the shut-off valves.
In some situations, you have to remove the tank. This technological operation is performed when the locking fittings are partially not suitable. If you cannot find the exact model that is ideally suited for installation, you have to buy a similar device. Then it is necessary to change the nut and sealing elements at the base of the tank in order to further install a new system.
To dismantle a sanitary ware bowl, you must adhere to a certain sequence of actions:
- close the water supply tap in the water supply system;
- drain the remaining water from the tank;
- if it is vertical, unscrew the button and remove the cover;
- get out the faulty valve, turn it counterclockwise;
- unscrew the clamping nut at the point where the hose connects to the tank;
- loosen and twist the locknuts that secure the bowl to the toilet;
- lift the tank carefully and set it aside without damaging the studs.
Next, you need to get the lower elements located in the drain tank and mount new ones taken from the purchased fittings.
The last step is to place the complete fixture inside the cistern, attach it back to the toilet and supply water.
Replacing the entire mechanism is needed when it is impractical to carry out repairs. For example, changing the drain for typical breakdowns, eliminating leaks in the lower eyeliner is much more troublesome. In many cases, you have to close up a hole or decide how to deal with wear spots on rubber surfaces. Therefore, it is much easier to buy and supply a new structural element. But if, for example, the float simply does not work, here you can do with minor repairs.
The float used in the tanks is designed to control the rise of water. When the bowl is full, the plastic element rises to a certain level and, at a given moment (when the water supply valve is closed), the flow of water from the water supply stops. If it is required to drain, the float gradually, by means of the rod, lowers to the bottom. Then the process of filling with water is repeated, and it slowly creeps up.
It should be clarified that the float rarely breaks. More often, mating structural elements of locking fittings fail - mechanism locks, adjusting units, rubber gaskets, membranes. If required, it can be adjusted in relation to the filling level of the tank with water. In older models, the setting is reduced to bending the holder wire. In new systems, it is necessary to adjust certain segments of the reinforcement.
A very unpleasant moment when water is observed on the floor of the toilet, resolve the issue with the leak follows immediately, otherwise there is a high probability of conflict with neighbors from below… Behind the toilet, a leak can form at the junctions of the pipe with the sewer drain and the toilet bowl. The corrugated hose may be leaking due to operational wear. If water appears at the junction of the cistern and the toilet, then the rubber cuffs have worn out. When it flows from under the tank lid, the malfunction must be looked for in the shut-off valves.
If a puddle is observed behind the toilet, disassemble the drain system and replace the rubber cuffs, as well as the corrugated hose. After installing new devices, seal the joints with sealant.
When the water on the floor is the result of faulty shut-off valves, you will have to remove the lid of the sanitary ware, and in some cases the tank itself.
There are four main malfunctions when water leakage is associated with an armature:
- water is poured through the overflow device;
- leakage at the point of attachment of the filling fittings;
- the bottom valve does not overlap, does not hold the volume in the tank;
- the cuff located between the toilet and the cistern requires replacement.
If in the first two cases the water does not stop, that is, it leaks, the repair is carried out on site, without dismantling the sanitary ware bowl. In the other two examples, you will have to remove the drain tank and replace the worn out elements with new rubber products.
Also, water can flow at the point where the water supply hose connects to the tank. The resulting leak appears immediately if the assembly is carried out without a thread sealant, or over time, when falling drops of tap water are observed.
Button does not work
Sets of shut-off valves are required with simple details. These elements are different. In some models, in one case, a pair of buttons is provided - for a large and a small drain. But it is better to buy a product with only one button. It is more reliable and durable in terms of long-term operation of valves.
Button malfunctions are rare. The most common are listed below:
- sinks into the body;
- the descent does not work due to the free wheeling of the button;
- large backlash when using the element (insufficient drainage is observed, it does not wash off the bowl well).
With the indicated problems, blaming the button or installing a new device is useless. The reason must be sought in the malfunctioning of the stop valve adjustments.
There are two main faults when the button does not work:
- the rod has broken (thin plastic part);
- the shut-off valves need to be readjusted.
If we are talking about the first point, it is necessary to change the characteristic pin, and in the second example, reconfigure the custom elements.
Dripping down to the floor
Such a nuisance can happen when the rubber products installed between the cistern and the toilet bowl are worn out. If there is a puddle behind the sanitary ware, the leak must be looked for at the joints of the mating elements - a corrugated hose, a cuff, a sewer drain, a toilet bowl drain.
After detecting and eliminating leaks, replacing deformed products, such places, after assembly, it is best to treat with a sealant to ensure reliability. If new fittings are installed, the rubber sleeves supplied in the kit must be used.
They are endowed with the necessary properties - elasticity, elasticity.
When it leaks from above or below, from the place of the screwed nut, which ensures reliable fastening of the flexible hose to the tank, it is necessary to shut off the water, unscrew the nut and wind tow or a special seal on the thread. Then tighten the nut without firm pressure.
In place of the push-button flush, it can leak only in one case, when the tank is overfilled with water. In this example, there will also be leaks between the lid and the cistern bowl. With such a malfunction, the float is usually at its highest point. Here you will have to disassemble the shut-off valves, change the gasket, which is responsible for the tightness of the inlet intended for the water supply.
When repairing a toilet bowl and cistern, you should prepare the necessary tools, adhesives, sandpaper, spare parts in advance. Analyze the stages of work and only then proceed to action. Remember to turn off the water first. If necessary, replace the stuck or rusted tap in the water supply system first, because if its body breaks, it will not be until the drain tank is repaired.
When replacing fittings, use the materials supplied in the kit. It should also be emphasized that not only the duration of operation of the locking and drainage device depends on the quality of the assembly of the structure, but also the tightness.
Not only a man can cope with the repair of a cistern or toilet bowl, but, in fact, any woman, if she follows useful recommendations and is attentive to the solution of the task. Such work does not present any extraordinary difficulties.
See the following video for the reasons and elimination of a leak from a cistern into the toilet.